Wednesday, October 26, 2011

Zind Humbrecht Pinot Gris Reserve 2009

Zind Humbrecht Pinot Gris Reserve 2009

I am incredibly suspicious of Zind Humbrecht, for it has joined the ranks of random phenomena that follow me around and make surprise appearances in my life. Like the number 47 or that "Express Yourself" song by Madonna, Zind Humbrecht is there, waiting in the shadows, ready to pop up and wave at me like an old friend you're possibly, maybe, perhaps... trying to avoid. 

But secretly, as with Madonna and 47, there's always a part of me which is happy to see the familiar flute of this Alsatian number, its consistency and reliability make me feel secure, plus, it was on half price at Majestic round the corner so I figured, what the hell.

This isn't the first time Zind Humbrecht has made an appearance on the Wine90 blog (of course). With over 30 different wines produced each year the wines of Oliver Humbrecht receive praise not just for sheer variety, it's not simply a case of "A for Effort", they also run the gamut of price points whilst maintaining a strong quality brand, i.e, the lower priced wines also exhibit craftsmanship and attention to detail. 

All Humbrechts wine, since 1997, have been produced biodynamically, care and attention to detail are the watchwords here. It is the well known philosophy of Oliver Humbrecht to let the quality of the terroir speak for itself, keep the yields low and let the work of winemaking take place in the vineyard. In other words, let the grapes express themselves. Hey Hey.

The Zind Humbrecht Pinot Gris Reserve 2009 is one of the entry level wines from Zind Humbrecht. The grapes come from an assortment of their own domaines rather than one individual clos or vineyard as with the Clos Windsbuhl Gewurztraminer. Even so, this wine, just £12.99 at Majestic (in-store, they've run out online) displays all the tell-tale signs of Humbrecht perfectionism and the natural potential of Alsatian Pinot Gris.

Zind Humbrecht Pinot Gris Reserve 2009 - BUY - £12.99
Highly evocative, perfumed nose with spicy floral notes overlaid with a hint of pineapple and blossom. Mid bodied with zippy acidity and a streak of minerality on the palate. I'm assured this is totally dry but the tip of my tongue told me otherwise, if not, fruit is playing me for a fool once more! A lovely wine either way, nice length to the finish and certainly a bargain at £13. 88 Points

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Zind Humbrecht Pinot Gris Reserve 2009 - Is this dry? Go out and buy it and tell me I'm not going mad?

What random phenomena follows you around? Let's get spooky... it's that time of the year after all.

Tuesday, October 18, 2011

Joseph Drouhin Grand Cru Grands Echezeaux 2004

Joseph Drouhin Grand Cru Grands Echezeaux 2004

In between the heat wave of '03 and the evangelising of '05 came the often dismissed Burgundy vintage of 2004, a brilliant year for nabbing choice bargains both in Burgundy and Bordeaux. Whenever I get a chance to taste Red Burgundy, which is sadly all too rare, I make sure I taste any 2004s in the line up, looking for a savvy purchase.

2004 Burgundy not only offers great value in 2011, we're also, well within for some and approaching for many, the optimum drinking window of these undervalued wines.

The wine I want to review today, the Joseph Drouhin Grand Cru Grands Echezeaux 2004, is not exactly a value driven wine by an unknown producer! It is still however, a bargain. Unlike so many other red burgundies of the vintage, we see no signs here of lack of concentration or green murky palates, in fact quite the opposite with a rich layer of quality, savoury fruit.

Joseph Drouhin Grand Cru Grands Echezeaux 2004 - BUY - £76
An enchanting nose with opulent notes of violets, minerals and intense cherries with a hint of nuttiness. The fruit and acidity seem to be perfectly in balance in 2011 and the tannins have not yet lost their grip. Longevity on the finish and a supple, rounded mouthfeel complete the experience. 94 Points - Drink Now - 2018

If you're prepared to trust in an Icelandic merchant, you can find the Joseph Drouhin Grand Cru Grands Echezeaux 2004 for just £76. The lower scoring "superior vintage" 2007 Joseph Drouhin Grand Cru Grands Echezeaux is currently retailing for over double this price. So if you're looking for some quality Burgundy but still fancy a bargain then this 18 Point Jancis Echezeaux must be the way to go.

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2004 Red Burgundy - Any Recommendations? Tried the Joseph Drouhin Grand Cru Grands Echezeaux 2004?


Friday, October 14, 2011

Anselmet Wine

Anselmet Wine

If you've found this page chances are you've recently been on holiday to Italy, had a bottle of Anselmet wine and immediately arrived home and hit up Google to find your nearest retailer. Right?

Right! The good news is: huzzah, you found a page dedicated to Anselmet Wine, the even better news is that, if you scroll down, you'll probably find the exact bottle you tried. But alas, there is bad news. You can't buy these wines back home. If you're from the UK then just forget about it. If you're reading this in the USA you can buy the Muller-Thurgau, which is fab news as it's one of the best, but only the Muller-Thurgau, sorry.

Recognise this bottle? All Anselmet wines do look rather similar but I am very keen on this simple style and the type font sets the tone for the whole experience I find (she said in Trebuchet).

Who are Anselmet?
Between Saint Pierre and Villeneuve (very Italian) you can find the historic wine making area of Torrette and the small but perfectly formed winery of Anselmet and it's owner Renato.

Producing 35,000 bottles and with just 5 hectares under vine, Anselmet are highly respected producers in the region, not only for the numerous awards and accolades they've accumulated over the years, but also for their dedication to the indigenous grapes of the Valle d'Aosta and their hearty flag waving for the wine region in general.

Recently I was lucky enough to try 9 Anselmet wines in Italy at a tasting that comprised several of the best winemakers in the Valle d'Aosta including La Crotta di Vegneron, Les Cretes and, the up and coming, Elio Ottin. What follows is a set of adjectives, possible similes but certainly no hyperbole and 9 wine reviews.

Anselmet - Muller-Thurgau 2009 - €15
Notes of pineapple, gooseberry and apricot. Mild acidity on the palate with a sumptuous mouthfeel but a touch hot on the end. Beautiful flavours and a surprisingly journey on the palate left me a bit confused. 86 Points

Anselmet - Muller-Thurgau 2010 - €15
As you'd expect, lighter and more vibrant than the '09 with hints of lime cordial on the nose and a nice little citrus kick on the finish. Tropical notes abound. Better acidity. Crisp and Fresh. 89 Points

Anselmet - Arline NV - €?
Just 900 bottles of Arline per year. Addictive nose, notes of honey, apricot, figs and candied lemon, lovely sweet wine suited perfectly to the blue cheese of the region. Loved it. 89 Points

Anselmet - Chambave Muscat- €14
Sweet orange peel and candied notes on the nose give way to a palate that has filed for divorce. Bitter and herbaceous notes in the mouth but with great length, when that length brings nettles, you don't want it. You can tell the wine is well made and interesting but it was not to my personal tastes.  84 Points

Anselmet - Chardonnay (Green Label) 2010 - €15
Faulty.

Anselmet - Chardonnay (Eleve en Fut de Chene) 2009 - €30
The star of the show. Elegant nose, spicy and warm with a hint of banana, if Chardonnays were drunk at Xmas, this would be the one to pop. Well balanced, nice use of oak, some tropical flavours and a silky mouthfeel. Happy Chardonnay.  91 Points


Anselmet - Torrette Superiore 2009 - €?
Mid bodied, strawberries and cream and cranberry aromas. Fresh and far more interesting than I thought it would be, complex with a fair few tannins and a good vein of acidity. Surprised and impressed by this.   90 Points

Anselmet - Pinot Noir 2009 - €16
Strawberry, vanilla and hints o' Hubba Bubba. Interesting wine, really nice flavour profile but then fades to green at the end, full bodied Pinot and well structured if a little one dimensional.   87 Points

Anselmet - Merlot Le Pellerin 2009 - €?
Dark brooding purple and ready to give you what for. Chocolate, plums and some floral aromas join you on the palate for some full on fruit and a bit of heat on the finish, feels like a baby bruiser who needs a few years in the cellar. Still good fun today.   88 Points

Anselmet - Syrah Henri 2009 - €?
Inky deep purple. Bramble, hedgerow, black forest gateau Syrah with an enchanting nose and a super fruit driven palate. My notes say Flavour Flavour and the only underlining in the book reminds me that this must be a knockout wine!  90 Points

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