Italian Wine Blog - Wine90

Antinori - Castello della Sala - Cervaro della Sala 2009

2012-02-01T01:27:00.000-08:00

Antinori Cervaro della Sala 2009

Name: Antinori Cervaro della Sala

Grapes: 85% Chardonnay, 15% Grechetto*

Alchohol: 13%

Classification: IGT Umbria

While all the world's wine bloggers are enjoying a jolly good knees up in Perugia at the #iwinetc, I thought I would pay homage to the event with a quick note on one of the very best wines of the area, Antinori's Cervaro della Sala. Certainly one of the big names on the Umbrian wine landscape, along with the icons of Caprai & Lungarotti, Cervaro della Sala takes its rightful place in the line up of Umbrian wine superstars.

Benefiting from the huge experience of the Antinori family (who took over the estate in 1940), the Castello della Sala Chardonnay is certainly the most famous, and by some the most highly regarded, Chardonnay of Italy. Decorated by Gambero Rosso, seemingly year on year, the 2009 scooped another Tre Bicchieri award, one of only nine awards to be bestowed upon Umbria this year.

So how is the 2009 Antinori Cervaro della Sala any different from the similarly excellent Gambero Rosso award scooping 2008? Simply a matter of vintage? Well, not quite.

Although vintage did play an important role in the difference between the 2008 and the 2009, the most obvious difference is the reduction of oak on the nose and palate. 2009 is the first year since I've been tasting this Chardonnay that the wood, especially in the early phase of the wines life, has not made itself immediately known upon opening the bottle.

2009 is the first year that "new oak" has not been specified by Antinori and here we have a slightly different, possibly more interesting, Castello della Sala. We already know the critics are just as impressed, but what will your everyday Antinori fans make of the changes and will the 2010 follow suit? Time will tell.

Apart from the use of new oak (or not) - there were significant differences in the growing season. 2008 was a classic vintage in Umbria with ideal conditions, a good amount of water in spring and a long, steady beautiful summer with the harvest coming in late August.This balanced, systematic weather allowed for perfectly ripe bunches, making great wine in such a vintage, is child's play for the winemakers at Antinori. In comparison, 2009 was a little more challenging with earlier budding, a blisteringly hot August and an even earlier harvest in mid August left tight skinned berries though with zippy acidity.

Antinori Cervaro della Sala 2009 - BUY - £37.99
"An intense golden colour with satisfying aromas of butter and hazelnut, although the oak profile strikes a better balance in 2009 than 2008 with tropical fruits, banana and flowers on the nose. The palates hazelnut & pear twang and coating full bodied mouthfeel give way to a long pleasant finish where the acidity comes through strongly. A well balanced, weighty wine with another 5-6 years ahead of it.". 91 Points

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About Antinori, Oak in Chardonnay or this particular wine!

* No matter what Decanter Magazine may tell you.

Zind Humbrecht Pinot Gris Reserve 2009

2011-10-26T01:48:00.000-07:00

Zind Humbrecht Pinot Gris Reserve 2009

I am incredibly suspicious of Zind Humbrecht, for it has joined the ranks of random phenomena that follow me around and make surprise appearances in my life. Like the number 47 or that "Express Yourself" song by Madonna, Zind Humbrecht is there, waiting in the shadows, ready to pop up and wave at me like an old friend you're possibly, maybe, perhaps... trying to avoid.

But secretly, as with Madonna and 47, there's always a part of me which is happy to see the familiar flute of this Alsatian number, its consistency and reliability make me feel secure, plus, it was on half price at Majestic round the corner so I figured, what the hell.

This isn't the first time Zind Humbrecht has made an appearance on the Wine90 blog (of course). With over 30 different wines produced each year the wines of Oliver Humbrecht receive praise not just for sheer variety, it's not simply a case of "A for Effort", they also run the gamut of price points whilst maintaining a strong quality brand, i.e, the lower priced wines also exhibit craftsmanship and attention to detail.

All Humbrechts wine, since 1997, have been produced biodynamically, care and attention to detail are the watchwords here. It is the well known philosophy of Oliver Humbrecht to let the quality of the terroir speak for itself, keep the yields low and let the work of winemaking take place in the vineyard. In other words, let the grapes express themselves. Hey Hey.

The Zind Humbrecht Pinot Gris Reserve 2009 is one of the entry level wines from Zind Humbrecht. The grapes come from an assortment of their own domaines rather than one individual clos or vineyard as with the Clos Windsbuhl Gewurztraminer. Even so, this wine, just £12.99 at Majestic (in-store, they've run out online) displays all the tell-tale signs of Humbrecht perfectionism and the natural potential of Alsatian Pinot Gris.

Zind Humbrecht Pinot Gris Reserve 2009 - BUY - £12.99
Highly evocative, perfumed nose with spicy floral notes overlaid with a hint of pineapple and blossom. Mid bodied with zippy acidity and a streak of minerality on the palate. I'm assured this is totally dry but the tip of my tongue told me otherwise, if not, fruit is playing me for a fool once more! A lovely wine either way, nice length to the finish and certainly a bargain at £13. 88 Points

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Zind Humbrecht Pinot Gris Reserve 2009 - Is this dry? Go out and buy it and tell me I'm not going mad?

What random phenomena follows you around? Let's get spooky... it's that time of the year after all.

Joseph Drouhin Grand Cru Grands Echezeaux 2004

2011-10-18T04:37:00.000-07:00

Joseph Drouhin Grand Cru Grands Echezeaux 2004

In between the heat wave of '03 and the evangelising of '05 came the often dismissed Burgundy vintage of 2004, a brilliant year for nabbing choice bargains both in Burgundy and Bordeaux. Whenever I get a chance to taste Red Burgundy, which is sadly all too rare, I make sure I taste any 2004s in the line up, looking for a savvy purchase.

2004 Burgundy not only offers great value in 2011, we're also, well within for some and approaching for many, the optimum drinking window of these undervalued wines.

The wine I want to review today, the Joseph Drouhin Grand Cru Grands Echezeaux 2004, is not exactly a value driven wine by an unknown producer! It is still however, a bargain. Unlike so many other red burgundies of the vintage, we see no signs here of lack of concentration or green murky palates, in fact quite the opposite with a rich layer of quality, savoury fruit.

Joseph Drouhin Grand Cru Grands Echezeaux 2004 - BUY - £76

An enchanting nose with opulent notes of violets, minerals and intense cherries with a hint of nuttiness. The fruit and acidity seem to be perfectly in balance in 2011 and the tannins have not yet lost their grip. Longevity on the finish and a supple, rounded mouthfeel complete the experience. 94 Points - Drink Now - 2018

If you're prepared to trust in an Icelandic merchant, you can find the Joseph Drouhin Grand Cru Grands Echezeaux 2004 for just £76. The lower scoring "superior vintage" 2007 Joseph Drouhin Grand Cru Grands Echezeaux is currently retailing for over double this price. So if you're looking for some quality Burgundy but still fancy a bargain then this 18 Point Jancis Echezeaux must be the way to go.

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2004 Red Burgundy - Any Recommendations? Tried the Joseph Drouhin Grand Cru Grands Echezeaux 2004?

Anselmet Wine

2011-10-14T03:29:00.000-07:00

Anselmet Wine

If you've found this page chances are you've recently been on holiday to Italy, had a bottle of Anselmet wine and immediately arrived home and hit up Google to find your nearest retailer. Right?

Right! The good news is: huzzah, you found a page dedicated to Anselmet Wine, the even better news is that, if you scroll down, you'll probably find the exact bottle you tried. But alas, there is bad news. You can't buy these wines back home. If you're from the UK then just forget about it. If you're reading this in the USA you can buy the Muller-Thurgau, which is fab news as it's one of the best, but only the Muller-Thurgau, sorry.

Recognise this bottle? All Anselmet wines do look rather similar but I am very keen on this simple style and the type font sets the tone for the whole experience I find (she said in Trebuchet).

Who are Anselmet?
Between Saint Pierre and Villeneuve (very Italian) you can find the historic wine making area of Torrette and the small but perfectly formed winery of Anselmet and it's owner Renato.

Producing 35,000 bottles and with just 5 hectares under vine, Anselmet are highly respected producers in the region, not only for the numerous awards and accolades they've accumulated over the years, but also for their dedication to the indigenous grapes of the Valle d'Aosta and their hearty flag waving for the wine region in general.

Recently I was lucky enough to try 9 Anselmet wines in Italy at a tasting that comprised several of the best winemakers in the Valle d'Aosta including La Crotta di Vegneron, Les Cretes and, the up and coming, Elio Ottin. What follows is a set of adjectives, possible similes but certainly no hyperbole and 9 wine reviews.

Anselmet - Muller-Thurgau 2009 - €15
Notes of pineapple, gooseberry and apricot. Mild acidity on the palate with a sumptuous mouthfeel but a touch hot on the end. Beautiful flavours and a surprisingly journey on the palate left me a bit confused. 86 Points

Anselmet - Muller-Thurgau 2010 - €15
As you'd expect, lighter and more vibrant than the '09 with hints of lime cordial on the nose and a nice little citrus kick on the finish. Tropical notes abound. Better acidity. Crisp and Fresh. 89 Points

Anselmet - Arline NV - €?
Just 900 bottles of Arline per year. Addictive nose, notes of honey, apricot, figs and candied lemon, lovely sweet wine suited perfectly to the blue cheese of the region. Loved it. 89 Points

Anselmet - Chambave Muscat- €14
Sweet orange peel and candied notes on the nose give way to a palate that has filed for divorce. Bitter and herbaceous notes in the mouth but with great length, when that length brings nettles, you don't want it. You can tell the wine is well made and interesting but it was not to my personal tastes.  84 Points

Anselmet - Chardonnay (Green Label) 2010 - €15
Faulty.

Anselmet - Chardonnay (Eleve en Fut de Chene) 2009 - €30
The star of the show. Elegant nose, spicy and warm with a hint of banana, if Chardonnays were drunk at Xmas, this would be the one to pop. Well balanced, nice use of oak, some tropical flavours and a silky mouthfeel. Happy Chardonnay.  91 Points

Anselmet - Torrette Superiore 2009 - €?
Mid bodied, strawberries and cream and cranberry aromas. Fresh and far more interesting than I thought it would be, complex with a fair few tannins and a good vein of acidity. Surprised and impressed by this.   90 Points

Anselmet - Pinot Noir 2009 - €16
Strawberry, vanilla and hints o' Hubba Bubba. Interesting wine, really nice flavour profile but then fades to green at the end, full bodied Pinot and well structured if a little one dimensional.   87 Points

Anselmet - Merlot Le Pellerin 2009 - €?
Dark brooding purple and ready to give you what for. Chocolate, plums and some floral aromas join you on the palate for some full on fruit and a bit of heat on the finish, feels like a baby bruiser who needs a few years in the cellar. Still good fun today.   88 Points

Anselmet - Syrah Henri 2009 - €?
Inky deep purple. Bramble, hedgerow, black forest gateau Syrah with an enchanting nose and a super fruit driven palate. My notes say Flavour Flavour and the only underlining in the book reminds me that this must be a knockout wine!  90 Points

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If you like Anselmet Wine - share the love.

Valle d'Aosta Wine

2011-07-27T00:31:00.000-07:00

Valle d'Aosta Wine

The Valle d'Aosta; currently synonymous with numerous oddities, skiing, snow, castles, Savoy, Italians speaking French, being tiny, many things, although the Valle d'Aosta produces fabulous wine, some extraordinary and celebrated, the UK wine radar does not pick up the Valle d'Aosta wine waves.

Having had a taste-tastic past experience with Les Cretes, the Gambero Rosso luvvy of the region, I thought I would organise a tasting of the best wines from the Valle d'Aosta from my family home in Umbria and host it at the house of my vintner near neighbour. Possibly a mistake...

Valle d'Aosta wine is nothing like Tuscan or Umbrian wine, its not even close, the grapes are different, the terroir is different, the weather is different.

Valle d'Aosta wines may be considered atypical in terms of our anglo-impressions of Italian wine, in fact blind, you may think these wines are from Germany or Eastern Europe.

Will a Sangiovese/Merlot winemaker, with a healthy dose of campanilismo give these wines a warm reception?

Not a chance. Is he wrong? Certainly.

Nowhere is it more obvious that wine evolves around the food of the region than in Italy, this IS a time when you can generalise about a country's wine. The wines of the Valle d'Aosta represents their region, of course its terroir and indigenous grapes, but also, it's food.

This wine was not made for the palates of Southern Italians or our English palates, so ingrained with Sangiovese and Sun when we do Italian. When trying the wines of the Valle d'Aosta for the first time you may need to do some mental readjustment (unless you are already au fait with the Piedmont). Certainly with the reds, less so with the whites. We Brits cope well with Muller Thurgau, Muscat and even Petit Arvine but it's the regions Chardonnays that will spark recognition and therefore often, enjoyment, for most.

Last month we tried 50 of the best Valle d'Aosta wines kindly provided by some of the very best producers in the region. Wines from Les Cretes, Anselmet, La Crotta and rising star Elio Ottin were kindly sent direct from the producers themselves and the next 4 blog posts will be dedicated to each producer in turn. But before this, let's get up to speed on this little region with big potential.

10 Valle d'Aosta Wine Facts!

1. Valle d'Aosta is Italy's smallest region and has a wine production of just 3 million litres per year.

2. Although 25 different wines are produced here, from Nebbiolo and Chardonnay to Petit Rouge and Pinor Noir there is but one DOC, the DOC Valle d'Aosta.

3. The Valle d'Aosta is home to the highest classified vineyards in Italy at Morgex.

4. The Valle d'Aosta's most celebrated/decorated wines are its Chardonany and Fumin.

5. Barolo fans may find something interesting in the wines of Donnas, a Nebbiolo wine just over the Piedmont border in the Valle d'Aosta, these wines have been steadily improving in quality over the last 10 years but are still relatively cheap and unknown outside Italy.

6. Although the Valle d'Aosta is located in the alps it has a continental climate with long, hot and dry summers with harvest time in early September.

7. The region is split into 3 main vineyard areas; the Valdigne, the Valle Centrale and the Bassa Valley (that's Upper Valley, Central Valley and Lower Valley to you).

8. You heard that Phylloxera wiped out the vineyards of Europe? Not so in the highest most reaches of the alps where, at over 3900 feet, those bugs took one look at the mountains and thought "nah".

9. Even in such a tiny and mountainous area, there are marked differences in the soils of the area. As a rule of thumb you can say the higher up you go the sandier the soil, the lower down, the more alluvial with clay and gravel featuring.

10. The region produces a diverse range of wines. Not only are their 25 different wines produced, these include light and bold red and whites, sweet and sparkling wines. It's an interesting and diverse region and one any wine lover should take some time to get to know.

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Favourite Valle d'Aosta Wine? Cant stand Valle d'Aosta wine? Never heard of Valle d'Aosta wine? Talk to me!

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Rivetto Barbera d'Alba 2008 Zio Nando

2011-07-16T04:32:00.000-07:00

Rivetto Barbera d'Alba 2008 Zio Nando

FACTFILE - Rivetto Barbera d'Alba Zio Nando 2008
Name: Rivetto Barbera d'Alba Zio Nando
Grapes: 100% Barbera
Alcohol: 14.00%
Classification: Barbera d'Alba DOC (Sinio)

Style: Barbera is food wine. High acid, with a black cherry profile and at their best capable of ageing. This Barbera is very well made with a sense of place due to some interesting forest floor notes. Maybe that's the 08 rain showing up! 18 Months in oak, manual harvest, stalk removal, partial 1944 vines = quality, care & attention.

Vintage: 2008 started poorly in the Piedmont with rain and cool weather bringing rot to some areas; there was much work to be done in the vineyard during the first half of the vintage. Rain continued into the summer months although the final ripening of the grapes was accompanied by some more stable warm weather. The vintage suited Nebbiolo rather than Barbera, although Barbera is a hardy grape and with loving care some fine Barbera wines were crafted.

Food Pairing: Meat and Pasta - naturally! Though such an acidic grape makes a wonderful pairing for many dishes including veal, lasagne and cheeses. What you really want to know... will Zio Nando go with actual Nando's? Surely a challenge begging to be taken?

Uncle Nando would be pretty chuffed with this wine. A 90 point Barbera d'Alba without hesitation with his name on the bottle and a % of the grapes from the vines he planted in 1944. Brothers, Alessandro and Enrico Rivetto currently produce 12 different wines at their Langhe estate which has been run by the Rivetto family since 1939 although the family story in wine goes back even further than that. These wines are all of a fairly small production, this 08 Barbera runs to just 10,000 bottles, their other wines, to similar low figures.

Total Rivetto Production
4 Barolo
3 Barbera d'Alba
1 Barbaresco
1 Dolcetto d'Alba
1 Langhe Nebbiolo
1 Moscato d'Asti
1 Langhe Nascetta

I wonder if the Rivetto estate is visited by slightly more females wine enthusiasts than male?

Rivetto Barbera d'Alba Zio Nando 2008 - BUY - £25
Thick dark ruby red in the glass. The perfume of this wine is divine, with forest fruits coming through strongly as well as sweet vanilla and a touch of chocolate, reminds me of a Mon Cherie chocolate. Evolves on the palate with a gentle attack, fruit forward mid palate (cherries) and a strong acidity that is well balanced. The fruit continues throughout the experience. Really strong effort especially considering the strife of '08. 91 Points

Where can I buy this wine? - Everywine

This Rivetto Barbera d'Alba 2008 Zio Nando, together with the Rivetto 2007 Barolo Serralunga, was very kindly sent to me by Rita Barbero who is in charge of their wine blog and marketing.

Germano Ettore Barolo Prapo 2005

2011-06-28T09:01:00.000-07:00

Germano Ettore Barolo Prapo 2005 - ENTER BAROLO COMPETITION HERE

The last I heard, there were only 12 more entries needed before the first draw of this competition so if you fancy bagging yourself the two previous Barolo wines I have reviewed (and this one) get yourself over to the Design Wine's Barolo competition. All you need to do is enter your email to stand a chance of winning all three of these Barolos. Design Wine are giving you four chances to win this Barolo trilogy and time is running out, so off you go, I'll wait here while you're doing it.

Finished? Okay, good. So onto this wine, the Germano Ettore Barolo Prapo 2005.

Germano Ettore Barolo Prapo 2005
A mid garnet red, the wine invites you to take in its aromas by teasing you from the cork pop. On the nose this Barolo offers plenty of oak but dies away a little to reveal strawberries, some herb notes (thyme) and a touch of graphite. The palate is full bodied, tight and tannic telling me we may need to wait a while to see the best of the Germano Ettore Barolo Prapo 2005. The finish is of good length and pleasantly persistent. 86 Points

For those wondering why anyone would call their wine "Prapo", this is a Barolo cru, like Ginestra or Rocche, it is not simply another mannered example of Italish.

Like the previous two wines, this is a low production example of Barolo and pretty rare. Not sold at all in the UK in fact except by Design Wines. Only 5000 bottles of the '05 exist and knowing the Italians half of them will have had their lives cut tragically short already. So this is your chance to take home a piece of Serralunga memorabilia and give a Barolo a good home.

Let me know if you win! Happy Wimbledon Ladies Quarter Finals Day.

*New Blog edited by me Smichov Hotels Prague

Mauro Veglio Barolo Castelletto 2005

2011-06-14T02:11:00.000-07:00

Mauro Veglio Barolo Castelletto 2005 - ENTER FREE BAROLO COMPETITION

The second Barolo from the competition pack is the Mauro Veglio Barolo Castelletto 2005 another super Barolo not readily available in the UK and certainly well worth winning. Design Wines are a little bit different in the way they source and rotate their wines. Rather than simply going after famous name Italian wines that are often requested (and therefore often supplied) they have a direct relationship with the wineries and producers, hand selecting wines they feel offer superb value for money whilst offering something a little different. They are choices born of passion and so many of the wines, this one included, are not just tasty wines but also interesting wines.

The Mauro Veglio Barolo Castelletto 2005 is a pretty rare beast with only 6000 bottles of the 05 produced. This wine is not for those seeking a traditional Barolo in either taste or profile. In the glass the wine is alive with tiny little particles of Barolo flavour dancing around due to the lack of fining or filtration. This is a long haired, rock n roll, bad boy Barolo with a secret passion for Berlioz. Probably the most interesting of the three wines but likely the least classically styled, I love it, but Barolo traditionalists may not. You can win a bottle of this Barolo and also a GB Burlotto '05 and Germano Ettore '05 by entering the competition with Design Wines Here.

Mauro Veglio Barolo Castelletto 2005 - WIN - £25-£30
Alive, living, breathing garnet red, deep in colour. On the nose this wine gives acres of pronounced oak and sweet alcohol but below this you can find violets, coffee and plenty of dark fruit. On the palate the wine is bold and a bit rough with an aggressive attack and plump mouthfeel . The mid palate is jam packed with licorice. The wood is still prevalent on the palate and I'm not sure the wine offers up enough acidity to truly age into a long term cellaring option. A decent length to the finish but still too much bitter wood for my preference on the end. Many classic Barolo lovers may feel like they've had a bit of a punch up after a confrontation with this wine but it is tasty and it is different! 86 Points

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My Twitter feed tells me that the love affair with Barolo in the last decade has ended, with many younger drinkers preferring to explore the other varietal wines (including Nebbiolo based) that Italy has to offer. Has Barolo had its day?

G B Burlotto Barolo Acclivi 2005 - Win It

2011-06-09T01:23:00.000-07:00

G B Burlotto Barolo Acclivi 2005 - Enter Competition to Win 3 Bottles of Barolo

Italian Wine Fans unite! This is the first of three Barolo entries on the run from DesignWine and one of the wines offered in their fabulous competition to win 3 bottles of Barolo for the terribly difficult task of entering your name and email here. There are 4 minipacks of Barolo to be won and the winners will be drawn at random every 250/500/750 and 1000th entry, thems are pretty good odds what not?

But, is this particular Barolo worth winning? Having had some experience of the three Barolos on offer I had a fair idea that this wine would give a pretty good show. 2005 was a super little Barolo vintage and the third in a run of five high class Barolo years but the 2005 G.B.Burlotto Acclivi was new to me and what surprised me was how well this wine is drinking today. I'm not sure this wine is really going to improve significantly over the next few years.

This wine, the Acclivi, is one of five different Barolo wines produced by G B Burlotto, their top wine being the Monvigliero which I'm sure is still a long way from being ready.

So to this wine, the 2005 G B Burlotto Barolo Acclivi ....

G B Burlotto Barolo Acclivi 2005 - WIN - £25-30 where sold.
Beautiful ruby red in the glass, takes a good hour to open up but when it does the intense aroma makes its way to you before you lift the glass. Typical and stunning Nebbiolo notes with strawberry, glazed cherry, marzipan, sweet spicy oak and a touch of orange peel. A silky mouth feel offers firm tannins that are gently washed away with perfect acidity although the finish is a little clipped. You are left with a somewhat watery finish and this is a surprise considering how enjoyable the first 30 seconds of this wine were. A good Barolo and fair for this price but not awesome, however, ready to drink and displaying good typicity. 89 Points

Where can I buy this wine?
Why buy it when you can win it? I guess if you don't win the 3 pack you could buy it instead. This particular wine is easy to locate, available in the US, Italy, Europe and the UK from many online wine stores and of course, Design Wine. If you're still stuck may I suggest - wine-searcher.com

Leave a Comment:
As always, any reviews of Burlotto Barolo welcome and if you are one of the lucky 4 winners it would be really cool to hear from you and how you enjoyed (or didn't!) this Barolo.

Barolo 2005 - Design Wine Competition

2011-06-05T08:51:00.000-07:00

Barolo 2005 - Design Wine Competition - ENTER COMPETITION HERE - 4 Chances to Win!

Who fancies some Barolo? If you're like me the answer is "yes please" and "always". Italian wine fans generally agree that Nebbiolo is the Italian grape and Barolo, her finest expression, and so it's with great excitement that I can tell the readers of the Wine90 blog and its incessant Twitter feed that I, together with Design Wine, have created a fabulous competition allowing all wine fans FOUR chances to win 3 superb bottles of Barolo from the excellent 2005 vintage. Four lucky Wine90 readers will win these wines (worth £109) - Barolo 2005 Trilogy by doing nothing more than registering with Design Wine, which, if you're a UK Italian wine fan, you should deffo do anyway!

Design Wines (www.designwine.com) have established themselves very quickly in the online wine market within Italy offering hand selected Italian wines via a clean and informative website and are now ready to operate in the UK. Even though we, the British, are the second biggest importer of Italian wine, it can still be, as we at Wine90 know all too well, tough to source the finest Italian wines. So, I for one am really chuffed to see Design Wine now able to sell to us Brits especially as around 60% of their wines are just not available in the UK.

OK, you want to know how to win the wine? You don't want to hear how I am going to be reviewing a wine each day and that you can taste along with me? No, you don't want any of that, you just to want to know how to win? Pft

Fine. Very simply - sign up here - http://www.designwine.co.uk/promotions/Wine_Competition_Barolo2005

We are looking for just 1000 registrations, every 250th registration will win the 3 pack of Barolo, simple as that, you can get your friends to register, your mum, her mum, probably not her mum but maybe... there are but two snags,

1) You must be old enough to drink
2) You must live in the UK or Ireland

Tell your chums, tell everyone you know who likes wine and even if you don't win yourself, who knows, they may save you a glass (though probably not, I wouldn't).

Leave a Comment:
I will be tasting all 3 of these Barolo wines in the upcoming blog entries but what I would really like to know is... which competition for Italian wine would you be most interested in? Would you like to win wines from the Alto Adige, wines from 2001, wine books, how can I tempt thee?

Negro Sudisfa Roero Riserva 2006 DOCG

2011-05-20T22:57:00.000-07:00

Negro Sudisfa Roero Riserva 2006

FACTFILE - Negro Sudisfa Roero Riserva 2006
Name: Negro Sudisfa Roero Riserva 2006
Grapes: 95% Nebbiolo and a splash of Arneis
Alcohol: 14.5%
Region: Roero DOCG
Style: Roero can be a confusing area. Some of the wines accentuate finesse, elegance and are less powerful while others, this Riserva included, are punchier, far more bold/structured and closer in style to their near neighbours, Barolo and Barbaresco.
Vintage: 2006 was an excellent vintage in Piedmont. The region was helped along with a fair bit of rain in September which was good for Nebbiolo (late ripening grape).
Food Pairing: Hard cheese, red meat and game dishes.

Ok, applause please for my first ever 6.30am Wine90 post.

*Basks in applause*

Right, now stop. That's enough of that thank you. I'm not really showing incredible dedication (although I am) for there are two reasons why I need to get up and blog about wine at 6.30am... 6.30AM. Firstly, today is apparently rapture day and I'd like to clear my desk and get my house in order before I ascend into heaven. Secondly, I am drowning in vino! Not literally drowning of course but my apartment does look like a wine warehouse, or if you prefer a cup half empty analogy, the local Oddbins off Old Brompton Road (Topical Points?)

So, got my cup of coffee, got my irritating morning bounce, lets review Negro Sudisfa Roero Riseva 2006. Now I must mention at this point that this Roero was sent to me by Great Western Wine. The guy at GWW sent two of his personal favourite Italian wines for me to try and I must credit him for his excellent taste. Roero DOCG is so often overlooked, not because it lacks quality or flavour but because it is seen as the 3rd Nebbiolo wine in the region. The siblings of Roero are Barolo and Barbaresco, arguably this could make for a Piemonte Holy Trinity (see, I deserve to ascend, not descend, ascend) but, unfortunately for Roero, it is Lepidus to their Mark Antony and Octavian. Too obscure? Wiki Triumvirate

This is the other Mark Anthony... isn't he creepy?

Roero is made from 95-98% Nebbiolo grapes and holds a position just North of Barolo and North-West of Barbaresco (although part of the zone faces Barbaresco - is anything ever simple!?). Although these three areas are separated only by a couple of miles the topography of Roero differs significantly to the Langhe hills. Roero's soil contains higher quantities of sand. So, the story goes, that Nebbiolo is not capable of reaching its fullest expression here but this may have more to do with the DOCG rules in Roero that allow the wine to be released 18 months earlier than Barolo and so do not allow significant time in barrique/barrel to tame the tannins. The riservas, however, get 32 months and are well worth seeking out as far cheaper, softer, easier and earlier drinking alternatives to Barolo.

So, we have a different style of Nebbiolo. This all works out well for the consumer because Roero places itself in that third position also in terms of price, and a fabulous hit of Nebbiolo can be had for up to a third of the price of a Barolo. In the case of Negro's Roero Riserva you could easily believe you were drinking a Barolo with a few years on the clock; it's pretty intense. It's Nebbiolo+. Perhaps this wine had simply reached its optimum drinking window (quite possible). This wine was so wonderfully Nebbiolo; perhaps too extracted for some palates, it reminded me of making myself a cordial and over pouring the Robinsons.

Negro Sudisfa Roero Riseva 2006 DOCG - BUY - £29.50
Super typical Nebbiolo nose, very generous, forward with sweet notes of strawberries, cassis and marzipan. This wine has layers of flavours on the palate and drinking the wine was a noticeable process as the tannins emerged but were then gently washed away with good acidity culminating in noticeable length on the finish. No hotness here even at 14.5% alcohol, everything in perfect balance to create a super sooped up Roero that's right up my alley. - 92 Points

Where can i buy this Wine?
UK - Great Western Wines - £29.50
USA - Hi-Time Wines - $52
Europe - Xtra Wine - €24

Leave a Comment?
*whispers* Before it's too late.

Abbuoto Grape

2011-05-18T02:14:00.000-07:00

Abbuoto Grape

Calling all Iphone users & Italian Wine Fans - There is a really cool little app for the Iphone from Gambero Rosso whereby you can search for Italian wines by grape. The results this app produces show only the wines from wineries who are in with Gambero Rosso and by no means represents all wineries who tend this grape, nor all wines that contain it. Nevertheless, this app provides information on wines made from over 250 grapes.

I have decided to go through that list, really just to educate and entertain myself and find out all I can about each of these 250 grapes. So, in true Sesame Street fashion, let us begin with the letter "A".

As you may know, Italian Grapes are ridiculous, there are thousands of them and more are discovered every year, many more disappear forever but we don't get to hear about those, they are simply, like the many unknown species that expire each day, lost in time... how sad.

Let us not lament on this upsetting fact for too long because the grapes that have been brought back from the brink or survive in small quantities are often wonderful discoveries, the Abbuoto grape is one such marvel. Abbuoto is actually one of many MIA grapes within Italy that is being studied closely and experiments are taking place by wineries in the Frosinone region where this grape was "re-found" to try to tease the best expression from Abbuoto. It is not yet fully understood how best to treat this grape to make wines that can truly appeal to the modern palate and move away from the simple rustic wines it can thus far muster. There may not be a way, although producers like Terra delle Ginestre are having fun trying.

It's not a wine available in the UK and neither is it a wine that tends to win awards but it is an important grape most notably because of its historical ties with the Roman poet Horace. Most likely, you've never heard of this grape, or you have just heard of it today and typed Abbuoto into Google and found this rambling post? Luckily for you, I have collected as much information as I can about this grape and the following blog entry should help you on your way!

Who makes wine from the Abbuoto Grape?
Generally a grape used for blending purposes, rarely does Abbuoto survive as a varietal wine alone. Historically this grape is thought to be the main ingredient in the fabled wine “Cecubo”. This wine was mentioned numerous times by Horace. A version of Cecubo is produced by famous Lazio winery Villa Matilde who have "recreated" Cecubo using Primitivo as the main grape and adding a less generous splash of Abbuoto. Terre della Ginestra also make a wine showcasing the potential of Abbuoto called "Il Generale" though I have never seen this wine in the UK or US.

Where does the Abbuoto Grape come from?
Abbuoto's historic home lies close to the Lazio town of Frosinone a place already mentioned within the Wine90 annals but unfortunately for speeding tickets, not indigenous grapes. Abbuoto is sometimes credited as Aboto and Cecubo.

What are wines from the Abbuoto Grape like?
As a blending grape Abbuoto can offer depth and colour to a wine. On it's own Abbuoto produces only rustic wines (estate agent talk for rough) capable of some moderate ageing with a max life of about 10 years. The wine is most commonly mixed with Primitivo & Negroamaro, as is the case with both Villa Matidle and Terra delle Ginestre, to produce wines of great character.

Where can I buy wines from the Abbuoto Grape?
Not a chance. As of May 2011, there appears to be no importer of Abbuoto wines either as varietal wines or as a major part of a blend.

Why are you writing about the Abbuoto Grape?
It seemed like a good idea at the time. This is part one of my epic (cart before horse?) run down of Italian Grapes which I will write about one by one in between putting off the ironing and doing my online shop.

Leave a Comment?
Any experiences of Abbuoto?

Game, Set and Match - Italian Wine

2011-05-11T10:01:00.000-07:00

Game, Set and Match - Italian Wine

Todd Martin. You must remember Todd Martin? He was one of my favourite tennis players back in the early 90's. On those occasions when I would drag my father down to that ivy-clad utopia of SW19 you may know as "Wimbledon", we would shout for "Old Todd" at the top of our lungs. Fans who were stood around the court (out on court 14 as it was then) imagined we were related to Todd Martin, why else would Yorkshire folk pump and cheer for Old Todd?

Well, there is no reason. Other than that old British tradition of picking a foreign player at random and supporting them just because we wanted to know what victory might feel like. We wanted to support an underdog but better an underdog that may actually win something. And Goran Ivanisevic must have gone out early!

Yet this isn't my hung portrait of Todd Martin. I wish. No, this photograph takes pride of place at the rather swish and too often overlooked Queens Club, just a short skip from my flat in London, W14. Todd won here and many other places so it's a little unfair to rank him alongside the Tim and Gregs of this world and even more unfair to call him "old" but still, it was a term of endearment we felt.

This is a wine blog, right?

I was invited to the Queens Club yesterday by Antonio Tomassini of Wine and Food promotions, a company committed to helping Italian wine producers get a foot in the door of the UK market. No easy task. If you're unwilling or unable to hand over your Primitivo or Montepulciano d'Abruzzo to Tesco or Asda for €1.40 a bottle or less then you have to go the long way round. The long way round could certainly be worse than the President's Room of Queens Club... talking to the likes of me.

In amongst all this tennis memorabilia and excitement the job at hand was to try Italian wines and of the 50 or so wines available to taste from roughly 12 wineries, these wines proved one thing to me, which I actually already know; that Italian wine is a bargain and the good stuff is not in Asda or Tesco. Are you shocked? I can tell you are. However, there were 87-88 point wines here that retail in Italy for between £2-3, wines with typicity, wines with verve even wines with structure and it makes me want to go home! Oh, sorry, I forgot I was British again for a moment.

So which wines stood out?

Two wines, the only two wines they produce, from Vivi, were both really very good for their €. Classic and simple examples of Falanghina and Primitivo both would make excellent food wines, a perfect wine for restaurants like Zizzi with a simple and modern branding. The Falanghina was crisp and fresh with good fruit and a fine streak of acidity, the Primitivo was classic dark fruit, blackberries with some extra, stand out notes you wouldn't expect from the price point with a bit of mocha thrown in, a touch green on the finish but not unforgiving. Watch out for Vivi at a Pizza Express or similar near you.

Then there were the wines showcased by the very knowledgeable and super-affable Maurizio Fava of Topwine. Maurizio was representing several wineries each offering something different, some lovely sweet wines, aromatic wines and crazily low priced Dolcetto and Barbera wines. The best of which were "Ray", "Aive", "Colle Manora' Minosa" (Sauvignon Blanc from the Piedmont) and the Tre Bicchieri "Pomodolce Grue". Have you heard of any of these? I bet not, and they're gorgeous wines. What doesn't make it 'ere is truly a tragedy.

The rest of the wines at the event lacked only the promotional clout that may be necessary to break the UK, there was no problem with flavour or value anywhere, but there was a lot of Montepulciano at this event and we are already awash with very cleverly branded Montepulciano. Many unknown varietals/docs were also present but I'm not sure the UK market are open to embracing even more Italian grapes/appellations. We need a push for education on Italian wine here in the UK, maybe then Albarossa (right), Schioppettino and the 20 gazillion others will get a chance. We're not great at holding lots of foreign grapes/appellations in our collective consciousness. Unless these terms are continually flashed before our eyes, we easily forget or our brains become tired. Even a most enthusiast wine promoter like Maurizio Fava can only list so many Dolcetto docs before my eyes get that slight glaze. And that's me. And I love Dolcetto!

Where can I buy these wines?
Go to Easyjet or Ryanair, pick a flight to Rome, Florence, Pisa or even Perugia, hop off, go to the enoteca or trattoria, buy them, accidentally miss the return flight. Live happily ever after.

Leave a Comment
Am I unfair? Can us British really remember more Italian DOC/Grapes than we do, is it our brains or is it their promotion, is it a lack of quality? Why didn't Tim win Wimbledon? Will Andy?

Next Post > Abbuoto

La Monacesca Verdicchio di Matelica 2009

2011-05-08T12:41:00.000-07:00

La Monacesca Verdicchio di Matelica 2009

FACTFILE - La Monacesca Verdicchio di Matelica 2009
Name: La Monacesca Verdicchio di Matelica 2009
Grapes: At least 85% Verdicchio grape but this DOC allows Malvasia and Trebbiano in the blend. The last vintages I tasted of this wine were 100% Verdicchio although there is no mention of other grapes on the label... so we guess 100% Verdicchio.
Alcohol: 13.5%
Region: Matelica DOC
Style: The standard bottling Verdicchio from La Monacesca is one of the best value driven Verdicchio wines on the market with classic tones of anise, almond and a sour, bitter finish. Verdicchio is famous for its wonderful fresh acidity which makes it a perfect accompaniment to so many seafood/pasta dishes.
Vintage: A straight forward but very hot growing season in 2009 did little to hurt the wines in the Matelica DOC (whose wines seem perpetually less affected by vintage than their neighbours). The wines do not appear over-ripe and continue to zing with acidity.
Food Pairing: Seafood risotto, fatty fish/octopus.

The smaller and less famous of the two Verdicchio DOC's (the other being Castelli di Jesi), Verdicchio di Matelica DOC covers an area of around 300 hectares just under 4kms from the Le Marche town of Macerata. The area produces dry whites (this one), passito wines and a spumante.This DOC, and this producer, also produce a popular and lauded riserva version which is highly celebrated and this year scooped the Gambero Rosso Tre Bicchieri award. These standard versions must contain at least 85% Verdicchio grapes and, as mentioned above, can include Malvasia and Trebbiano up to 15% in the blend.

However, if ever there was a white wine for food Verdicchio is it. It isn't that I am generously complimenting Verdicchio's ability to bring out the fuller flavours in food, as much as that, without food, it's, well, lets be polite, unpleasant. You know when you feed a baby a gherkin or give it a sip of black coffee for the first time and it pulls that "OMG why would you do this to me" face? For me, for my palate, it's a little like that.

Now don't misunderstand me. Verdicchio is a wonderful wine with food. La Monacesca Verdicchio di Matelica 2009 especially, is, a wonderful wine with food. Throw this wine at me alongside a seafood risotto and I'm happy as your 10 year old nephew with a new record angry birds hi-score. However, I'm yet to be bowled over by Verdicchio as a stand alone varietal wine, even when the DOC allows for a blend this grape asserts that bitter finish that many people love. Verdicchio is a very popular wine.

Setting aside my personal preferences, this Verdicchio is a perfect example of the grape. La Monacesca Verdicchio di Matelica is produced by one of the most consistent wineries in Le Marche and within a DOC famous for its year on year ability to conquer the vintage. This isn't because the soil and micro-climate around Matelica are so particularly favourable, it's because the producers in this region, as well as having good soil, are also rather good and competitive winemakers. What I'm saying is, if you want to give Verdicchio a go, or, if you're already a convert and are looking for a solid, well-priced and reliable Verdicchio then La Monacesca's Verdicchio di Matelica 2009 is one of the better bottlings readily available in the UK.

La Monacesca Verdicchio di Matelica 2009 - BUY - £9
A golden yellow in the glass with distinctive green hues. On the nose this wine gives out a tremendous waft of aromatic beauty with citrus, anise, honeysuckle and green under-ripe walnuts. Striking acidity and a luscious mouth-feel gives this wine a rich, opulent tone with sour citrus notes continuing to the mid palate. The finish is generous but very bitter, so much so as to shock the unexpecting. The wine's fruity, almost blossom-like nose is so beautiful that the bitter finish creates an unpleasant ending for my palate but this is Verdicchio and you must decide for yourself. My score: 87 Points

Where can I buy this Wine?
Americans - Luekens - $19
Brits - Waitrose - £9
Europeans - Bulzoni - €9

Leave a Comment:
Love or Hate Verdicchio?

There is still time to enter the Italian Wines 2011 Gambero Rosso competition on the previous blog entry. Well... two hours anyway, c'mon, chop chop.

Italian Wines 2011 - Gambero Rosso

2011-05-05T07:50:00.001-07:00

Italian Wines 2011 - Gambero Rosso

It's back, it's blue, with four hundred and two... Tre Bicchieri awards. It's everything you need from an Italian wine guide and I'm giving away copies to the best comments left on today's blog entry.

How do you win a copy of Italian Wines 2011 from Gambero Rosso, very simply by giving out your own Tre Bicchieri award to your favourite Italian Wine of the Year. Simply tell me which has been your favourite Italian Wine of 2011 below, and why. The best stories/tasting notes will receive free copies directly from Amazon.

Why would you even want a copy of Italian Wines 2011 from Gambero Rosso? If you have any interest in Italian Wine at all then this book is invaluable, I use it every day, there are reviews on over 2000 wineries and 20,000+ wines. The wines are catalogued by region and a general overview of the Italian county is given with recent changes to DOC/G rules laid out and special mentions to wineries who are producing at a high level. From princely Piedmont to meagre Molise, every wine producing Italian region (which is all of them) gets a mention.

Italian Wines 2011 was compiled by a selection of Italian wine experts who spent the year touring the country and tasting wines region by region, shortlisting the best Italian Wines and keeping an eye out for exceptional wines made biodynamically. However, the most invaluable information in the 2011 Italian Wines edition is the inclusion of a list that showcases all the Tre Bicchieri wines that retail under €15 proving once again that Italian Wine is the best value wine in the world. No bias.

A wine for every week of the year (that's 52 in earth years) made the "Three Glasses under €15" list, some wines you would expect and others are a welcome surprise. Here are 10 of the most interesting wines to make the list, as for the others, you'll have to take part in the competition won't you!

Pedres - Vermentino di Gallura Sup. Thilibas 09
Ca' Bolina - Friuli Aquileia Pinot Bianco 09
Settesoli - Cartagho Mandrarossa 08
Cascina Corte - Dogliani Vecchie V.Pirochetta 09
Villa Medoro - Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 08
Lungarotti - Torgiano Bianco Torre di Giano V il Pino Ris 08
Pietracupa - Greco di Tufo 09
Villa Venti - Sangiovese di Romagna Sup Primo Segno 08
Torrevento - Castel del Monte Rosso V Pedale Ris 07
Kuenhof - Peter Pliger - A.A Valle Isarco Veltliner 09

Can you buy these wines in the UK? Eh, probably not. However, Superiore.de deliver to the UK and are dedicated to shipping out Gambero Rosso recommendations.

Why else is Italian Wines 2011 useful? It also contains the phone numbers and email addresses of the wineries and indicates whether you can buy directly from the cellar door or visit the winery - very useful if you're touring the vineyards of Tuscany, Piedmont... or that one in Molise. Being rather long and thick, it's also good for getting at scared spiders and if you stand on it you become three inches taller. Almost instantly.

So, simply leave a comment starting "I would like to win a copy of Italian Wines 2011 by Gambero Rosso and my Tre Bicchieri award goes to....... blah blah". I have 5 copies of this book to give away and as the amount of comments I've ever had has never been beyond 30, you've got a pretty good chance of winning. Go for it! Forza, Forza!

All the Best! Wine90 (kisses)

P.S. I am very pedantic, you must start the comment... "I would like to win a copy of Italian Wines 2011 by Gambero Rosso and my Tre Bicchieri award goes to" or I'll disqualify you.

Taurasi Feudi di San Gregorio

Antinori Tignanello 2006

2011-05-04T01:44:00.000-07:00

Antinori Tignanello 2006

FACTFILE - Antinori Tignanello 2006
Name: Antinori Tignanello 2006 IGT
Grapes: 85% Sangiovese, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon & 5% Cabernet Franc
Alcohol: 13.5%
Region: In the heart of Chianti Classico.

Style: Marl, shale and chalk soils in the centre of the Chianti Classico region produce Tignanello, the jewel in the CC crown. A year in barrel and a year in bottle; the IGT label allows Antinori flexibility over the grape percentage, barrel and bottle ageing etc, even so, Tignanello is consistent in style year on year.

Vintage: 2006 was a capricious growing season with fretful glances to the sky throughout. A cold autumn and winter led to late budding with both spring and summer bringing frequent rains, however a dry and hot harvest month led to perfect ripening and the vintage was not only saved, but excellent.

Food Pairing: Lamb/Veal Chops, Heavy Pasta/Mushroom Sauce & Beef.

I'm a year behind on Tignanello! The Tignanello posts for '04 and '05 are the most frequently searched on Wine90 proving that Tignanello is a wine of huge interest both at home and abroad, as a fine wine, it is perhaps the most famous Italian wine of all. The love affair for this "Super Tuscan" continues unabated even with the growing movement for well produced varietal examples of traditional Italian grapes. The Far East are now taking an interest in the "Supers" and with the price doubling just in the few years I've been writing this blog it will be interesting to track the movement of the Tig market in the next few years.

The Antinori Tignanello 2006 currently retails in the UK for between £65 and £75 per bottle and is totally overpriced. Just three years ago I was selling this wine for £38 a bottle and this for the brilliant '04. Back in 2008 Tignanello was still a bargain, in 2011 this wine would need to score huge in order to make this a fair QPR wine. As it stands, this will be the first Tignanello I've ever PASS'ed. Still a powerful and dense wine but no longer a fair price and with many other wines from Tuscany, Umbria and a few even from Lazio offering a very similar experience for half the price, Tignanello 2006 is a label only and not one I'll aspire to. The coming vintages will either have to be much more impressive or stabilize on price, or, as will likely be the case, be enjoyed in wine markets other than the UK.

Antinori Tignanello 2006 - PASS - £70
The wine sits intense, deep ruby red in the glass. Cherry, Spice, Herb and hints of oak on the nose combine for an initially stunted but eventual punchy and rich aroma. Great density of flavour and richness on the palate, firm tannic structure and solid acidity; this wine is in balance. Vibrant and fruit forward through the palate with a clean and satisfying finish. Very good wine, but not extra special or "super". 92 Points

Where can I buy this Wine?
Brits - The Wine Library - £70
Americans - NC Wine Market - $76
Europeans - La Loggia - €50

Leave a Comment:
Anyone in the UK willing to pay £70+ for Tignanello?

Bolla Le Poiane Valpolicella Classico Ripasso 2008

2011-04-22T03:08:00.000-07:00

Bolla Le Poiane Valpolicella Classico Ripasso 2008

Top Read Blog Posts - May 2011
Tignanello 2006
Italian Wines 2011
Verdicchio di Matelica

FACTFILE

Name: Bolla Le Poiane Valpolicella Classico Ripasso 2008 - £13/€10/$15
Grapes: 70% Corvina and Corvinone, 30% Rondinella & other local varities
Alcohol: 13.5%
Region: Jago Village, Valpolicella Classico DOC
Valpolicella Classico is made with the grapes grown from the classical area of Valpolicella.
Style: Superiore (aged 1 year with at least 12% alcohol), Ripasso (After malolactic fermentation, the wine goes through the “ripasso” process, which entails fermenting the wine on Amarone must for approximately 20 days)
Vintage: 2008 - Rain and Hail affected the early growing season but reports for Valpolicella and Amarone are positive.
Food Pairing: A thick juicy, dark cherry/raisened wine, this Valpolicella Ripasso should pair well with big meaty pasta dishes, game stew and steak.

Bish Bash Bosh! Doesn't that look neat?

It is easy to forget, when you are studying wine or have been involved for many years that these terms, Ripasso, Classico, Superiore etc etc are actually highly confusing. Not only are there so many terms to learn, but what these words mean change from country to country, region to region and even DOC by DOC. Superiore will usually mean additional ageing and higher alcohol, but how much will depend on the DOC/G you're tasting.
Why is Italian wine so confusing?

So from now on, when profiling just one or two wines, I will do so in the above "factfile" style; explaining any unusual terms.

Yes, Yes, but is the Bolla Le Poiane Valpolicella Classico Ripasso 2008 any good?

Jolly Delicious. I took this wine to a dinner party on Wednesday night in Pimlico, London.
The meal was an all Greek affair, rather simple in fact, a good old fashioned case of making a shoe from your pitta and exploring the range of houmous that UK supermarkets now produce. Olive, sun dried tomatoes, tzatziki and falafel completed the Greek Pick N Mix and I am happy to report that the Le Poiane complimented the Greek fare surprisingly well, far better than the Rioja our host brought along. That sounds rude... but it did!

Do not expect Le Poiane or any Classico Ripasso Valpolicella to be anything like regular £4 bottles of Valpolicella, these are altogether different wines not light-bodied or unbalanced by high acidity. The effects of the Ripasso process produce more serious, luscious wines styled closer to Amarone itself than wines typically associated with the label Valpolicella. These wines, when pairing with food, should be treated as entirely different wines, as different as you may treat a Merlot from a Cab.

Bolla Le Poiane Valpolicella Classico Ripasso 2008 - BUY - £13
Le Poiane sits a thick, deep purple in the glass. On the nose the wine offers an initially compact profile of raisins and dark cherry with little else but over time expands to include spicy notes with a hint of vanilla. This wine is harmonious on the palate with a luscious mouth-feel complimented by a steady acidity but the fruit is the most prevalent force with dark cherries and raisins showing on the mid-palate and finish. This wine is punchy, smooth and well balanced and thus really easy to drink, but not complex nor with any real finish. Flexible enough to compliment a range of food pairings; a good dinner party wine. Le Poiane even goes well with William and Kate home-made wedding cake! Bargain. 86 Points.

Where can I buy this wine?
Bolla is massive both internally and overseas. In the UK this wine is sold by Waitrose. In Italy you can find it next to the Coca Cola and San Pellegrino Chinotto. Bolla has a large distribution in the USA too. There will be no problems locating this wine, many of the online stores sell this product.

Leave a Comment:
Experiences of Bolla or Ripasso Valpolicella? Maybe you love regular Valpolicella, Classico or not? Tell it how it is!

Other Recent Blog Posts - May 2011
Tignanello 2006
Italian Wines 2011
Verdicchio di Matelica

Berry Bros & Rudd Italian Wine... and Competition

2011-04-12T06:52:00.000-07:00

Most Read Blog Posts - May 2011

Tignanello 2006
Italian Wines 2011
Verdicchio di Matelica

Top Wines of the Week

2011-03-27T03:01:00.000-07:00

Top Wines of the Week

Other Recent Blog Posts - May 2011
Tignanello 2006
Italian Wines 2011
Verdicchio di Matelica

This has been quite the week for expanding my wine education. Having visited both the Sampler in Kensington and Vagabond Wines in Fulham this week, I can safely say that I am now highly skilled in using Enomatic machines and a little closer to spotting a Rousanne at a thousand paces. The only drawback of having credit-loaded wine cards is the vast amount of tasting notes it generates and the number of quality wines you feel you must blog, tweet and generally rave about to anyone who will listen.

To that end today's blog entry will be a series of recommendations and tasting notes. What a joyous read! For the foodies who occasionally wander by Wine90, here is a photograph of a pizza I made from scratch. For those who think it may be terrific fun to make a pizza and have never made one before I have just one tip; be sure that your yeast grams are not fast-acting yeast grams. I used double the amount of yeast required for my dough and when I woke up in the morning, the remaining pizza dough had exploded out of its tin foil wrapping and taken over half of my fridge. No one wants to spend Saturday morning scraping cold hard dough off their appliances.

Remembering this is a wine blog... I managed to taste about 60 wines last week at the Sampler and Vagabond Wines. The very tip toppy best of which I've listed below in case you fancy trying them yourself or doing the old fashioned thing and actually buying a bottle!

Qupe Rousanne 2007 - £30

As an Italian wine blogger, I seem to have written an awful lot about this Californian producer. Qupe is renowned for quality wines at a fair price and offers many varietal wines. The Rousanne in 2007 is immense. I had no idea Rousanne was even capable of producing a wine like this without a splash and dash from its friends, but apparently so. I have a crush on this wine, not a healthy one either.

"A beautiful golden vibrant colour, the wine offers a generous nose of spices, banana peel, pineapples, baked pears and a hit of hazelnut. On the palate this is as smooth and silky a white as you can imagine, luscious texture and a ripe fruit forward quality as well as good length on the finish and great acidity, perfectly in balance and harmonious. Was not expecting the wine to be this good." 93 Points

Villadoria Barolo Sori Lazzarito 2006 - £24

Usually you see £24 and the word "Barolo" at a petrol garage or in a high street liquor chain that will, in a matter of hours, close their doors for the last time. This, like the Qupe, is another wine that took me by complete surprise. The Villadoria, made in the new skool Barolo style has less of the obvious tar and mushroom characteristics of traditional Barolo but it has one very important thing going for it... it can be drunk today!

If you have a thirst for Barolo, which I often do, you can find yourself looking longingly at your late 1990s stash of Giacosa's & Voerzio's and wishing your life away so as to have reasonable justification for popping them. So to find a £24 Barolo that you can drink today is a great way of stopping yourself from committing unforgivable acts of infanticide in these hard economic times. New skool Barolo is not without her charms and personally I'm a fan of their fruit forward, smooth tannins and early drinking window.

"A deep ruby red, the wine is aromatically generous and offers a trademark Barolo nose with a few extra notes of blackberry, marzipan, vanilla and liquorice. Grippy tannins on the palate and a smooth, "kind" mouthfeel contribute to a fair old Barolo hit and £24 well spent. Not complex, but tasty." - 90 Points

Fritz Haag Riesling Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Auslese - £30

One of the Mosel's top producers and a wine from the greatest Riesling site in the world does constitute the £30 price tag and 2009 looks to be a terrific vintage for Weingut Fritz Haag.
"A pungent, sweet pear and stone nose. This wine has a terrific concentration of fruit and a good balance of acidity and sweetness. A delicious, more-ish, terrifically tasty wine and a fine example of the very best from the Mosel" 93 Points

Allegrini Amarone 2006 - £52

Yet another appearance for Allegrini's Amarone, vintage upon vintage (especially the last 3) Allegrini produces a top drawer Amarone. Leave the 2006 alone for another 5 years at least.
"Dark raisin, tar and spicy chocolate nose. Heavy almost ink-like mouthfeel as well as blocky tannins. This wine is far too young to drink and is a meal in a glass as opposed to a wine. Great concentration of fruit and a solid structure - tomorrow's blockbuster" - 92 Points.

Bodegas Ponce Pino Bobal 2009 -£23
It's great when a wine is terrific fun. If anybody has ever had this wine blind and pegged it then my hat is well and truly off. Ponce... Bobal... these were not wine words to me two weeks ago, now, they're pretty much all I can talk about. Ponce is the king of Bobal if my twittering research is accurate and this wine seems to be a universal favourite. Still only £23 this wine is so wonderfully different it will make for a talking point at any party, wine themed or not.

"A fresh, fruity Spanish red with notes of sweet cherry and boysenberries. A touch beaujolais-esque on the palate, good acidity and a jammy midpalate this wine is well-made and uniquely interesting. I have a feeling that this wine will leave few on the fence, you're either with Bobal or you're against it. Luckily for me, I'm all over it" 90 Points

Weingut Gottardi Blauburgunder Mazzon 2007 - £25

Proof again, if proof be needed, that northern Italy can do the other Pinot to a tee. This Pinot Noir was one of only ten Pinots from last week that made the top 6. This wine is complex and delicious. I do so love it when Italian wines, with German names do a number on "French" grapes.

"Savoury notes intermingle with a distinct strawberries and cream sucky sweets nose. The palate holds fine acidity and subtle tannins in a union of Italian Pinot Noir perfection. Good price, great example and delicious to boot. 92 Points

All these wines can be bought from The Sampler or Vagabond Wines.

Chateau Haut Brion 1994

2011-03-20T06:08:00.000-07:00

Chateau Haut Brion 1994

Ten years ago I took my first trip to the Roman Forum. As a student of Roman Archaeology at UCL and at that time, a Brit who hadn't spent much time abroad, standing there in the ruins of the Forum and imagining upon whose footsteps I now tread, I became a little awestruck by the history and energy of this place and wondered if I should even be there. When you are a student of any subject or passionately interested in any discipline, be it archaeology, history or wine, certain places and objects take on a religious quality and can make you feel, just that little bit small.

Now, as a student of wine, I feel that way about Chateau Haut Brion, I've been around this wine on a few occasions but hadn't yet made bold to try it, somehow I didn't feel ready. Now, I'm sure some of you think this is ridiculous and as an Italian Wine Blogger, I should just neck Haut Brion with a casual wave of the hand but I've always been one for honouring the moment and so it has taken till now for me to dare tackle Haut Brion, lest the wine gods strike me down. This being the 1994 Chateau Hat Brion and not some hallowed vintage I thought perhaps I was ready. If you don't know much about Haut Brion you may be thinking that I've finally lost my marbles but this wine is to wine aficionados as a Bugatti Type 57S is to petrolheads. You wouldn't simply jump in, start revving the engine and place your McDrink in the cup holder (not likely to have one really is it?). Haut Brion has been impressing the English for five centuries and was making waves across the Channel long before the other First Growths of Bordeaux. This wine is something to be approached with care or, as I nearly did, you might just miss it.

How did I miss it? A funny thing happened on the way to the Forum? Kinda. Perhaps this is the way with Bordeaux First Growths or even with Haut Brion itself, and if it is and you've experienced this, let me know, but this wine, full of sweet smokey vanilla on the nose and pretty much ruby red to the core, was rather disappointing on the palate. I had prepared myself to be amazed, or at least to taste something that was a little different, that something special, that something that justifies all these eye-watering Bordeaux price tags and says "there you go, this is why I'm worth £600". When nothing happened, I felt a little tricked. All that build up, all those pages written and read. So, still shaking my head, I washed my glass and went to pull a new one from the rack ...then it happened.

Hallelujah. A good 30 seconds after I had already dismissed this wine my tastebuds came alive, the sides of my tongue tingled and this wine came back with all the flavour of an initial attack from something 15 years its junior. BOOM. And it was good! Red fruits aligning perfectly with those fading tannins, raspberry, cherry and pepper notes and some high acidity. I'm informed that this is not classic Haut Brion, from a difficult vintage with a September wash out the '94s ran the length of quality at the time and as they evolve seem even more unpredictable.

Am I a convert? Not exactly, I love surprises, I especially love wine surprises, but perhaps I am not yet far enough on with my wine education to appreciate a £286 Haut Brion judgement slap but it was a lesson well learnt and as I only sampled this wine at the gorgeous Sampler in South Kensington, my lesson was just over £13, which I think is about fair for 30 seconds intensive education from a master.

Above is the fabulous location of the extraordinarily pretty "Sampler" in South Kensington. They have 1000 bottles of wine here to buy and 80 on sample. I did feel empowered enough to buy their last magnum of 1994 Leoville Poyferre (which was a steal!) who generally treats me a little less roughly than Haut Brion.

Where can I buy this wine?
If you're in London you can go now and sample the Chateau Haut Brion 1994 at the Sampler in South Kensington, London. If you wish to buy it, you can do so via the links below.

For Brits - The Sampler - £284
For Americans - Premier Wine - $299
For Europeans - Espada.ch - 280CHF

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Which wine has given you a slap, what did it teach you and was it worth the money?

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Arnaldo Caprai Rosso Outsider 2006

2011-03-17T07:13:00.000-07:00

Arnaldo Caprai Rosso Outsider 2006

Hello everybody I am WineNineterchuk and this is your Daily Gr... oh wait, I got confused. So as not to upstage the terribly exciting news within the Wine Blogging community I thought I would just enter a simple tasting note on a top drawer wine that has to be among the best value wines anywhere in the world. So, keeping it tight ...

Last weekend I had the jolly good fortune to visit Umbria and the vineyards of Arnaldo Caprai, I've been to Caprai before, (link it up me - Arnaldo Caprai) the vineyard and tasting rooms are amongst the most informative and stylish in Sagrantino and it's a pleasure to taste here in such beautiful surroundings.

The main Caprai buildings are awash with in depth information about the soils of the area, ageing and oak etc, and for those really interested in the vinification of Sagrantino, one of the worlds most tannic wines, it is an informative day out. A free one too.

As I've already written extensively about Caprai's facilities and range in 2009, I'll let you follow the link above if your heart so desires and just get on with what I want to talk about, which is, the Rosso Outsider.

Now, Caprai already has two infamous wines, the Collepiano and 25 Anni Sagrantinos are the signature Caprai wines (amongst the best examples of the grape) but it's the Merlot/Cabernet Rosso Outsider that I fell in love with in 2005 (95 Points - me) and whose personality simply could not be ignored in the big, over the top, 2006.

Caprai Rosso Outsider 2006, is very similar in style to the 2005 but yet more extracted, concentrated and with a finish as long as your arm. The 2006 has an obnoxiously overwhelming fragrance of wet pencil and tobacco, you would think for all the world that this was some young slip of a Pauillac and yet, not sat even in Bolgheri, we're sampling Cabernet Sauvignon perfection? Blended perfection?

This is Umbria, but with the '06 vintage fairing so well for Brunello/Chianti we should not be surprised the Cab blend has fared so well. The structure of this wine, the biting tannins and length are a real power play and if the price of Bordeaux and Super Tuscans make your eyes water, this could be the next "go to" place for age worthy, merlot/cab blends. MARK IT DOWN. Super Umbrians are coming and Marco Caprai, the media savvy company head is leading that charge.

Arnaldo Caprai Rosso Outsider 2006 - £30 - BUY
Intense ruby red with pronounced, youthful aromas of graphite, blackcurrant and with sweet spicy overtones. On the palate the wine has extreme grippy tannins and an intense oak bent that I'm gambling will drop away over the coming years, I hope, to be replaced by the dark forest fruitiness that can be found on the long punchy finish. Incredible structure but not to be drunk now. 93 Points

The 2005, in my opinion, is far better for drinking over the short term and is much more fruit forward at this young age. If you're prepared to wait, the '06 would be an interesting gamble. However, if you buy a case of both, you're sure to win, and that's what I have done!

Where can I buy this wine?

For us Brits - Lea and Sandeman carry the 01 for £25
For us Europeans - Superiore.de carry this vintage for £30. ,
For you Americans - Grapes The Wine Co have the '04 for $60

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Are you ready for the Super Umbrians? Have you already heard their call, are you in fact, already enrolled? Vive la revolucion in the tiny village of Montefalco. Vive indeed.

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Artisan and Vine - Take Two

2011-03-09T05:44:00.000-08:00

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Artisan and Vine - Take Two

It's been about two years since I last headed up St Johns Hill in Battersea to the Artisan and Vine and much has changed at this award winning London wine bar, famous for its unusual selection of natural wines. I made a date to catch up with the owner, Kathryn O'Mara, via Twitter last weekend and so, good to my word, turned up, pen and paper at the ready to try her new range of Italian wines by the glass.

There are several super reasons for any serious wine fan to take a trip to the Artisan and Vine, firstly, the natural wines contain no sulphites and so ensure no headache in the morning, secondly, they've got some great hot food on the menu now including some delicious vegetarian options and thirdly, the wines by the glass change on a regular basis so there is always something new and interesting to sample. Many of the wines on the list are the direct result of Kathryns visits to vineyards all over the world, and I, as well as most of you I'm sure, are frankly jealous of this lifestyle and, due to this, I shall knock a point off every wine I review.

Now, on top of flying the flag for natural wines, Kathryn also does her bit promoting and selling English wines which continue their stratospheric rise in popularity and are among the best selling wines at the Artisan and Vine. The reason for my visit was to taste through the range of Italian wines by the glass but I did wander off my path, not discouraged by Miss O'Mara, into the world of Wiltshire wines and then for no good reason at all onto a Pouilly Fuissé, which turned out to be the best wine of the evening.

So George Dawes, what are the scores? (All these wines are between £4-£7 a glass)

Ca 'd' Gal Lumine Moscato di Asti

Notes of apricot, orange and elderflower on the nose but very faint, on the palate the wine reminds me of Orange Lockets... but in a good way, a lovely fresh wine and a great appetizer, exceptionally easy drinking if a little over sweet even for my sweet tooth. 84 Points

Cantina Ericina Integra (Orange Wine) 2009

Sicily's most common grape doesn't make its way over to the UK often so this was a real treat. Dark caramel orange colour with a nose a little like Cointreau with a sweet alcoholic note. A really fresh and vibrant wine on the palate with a long sour under ripe orange finish. Doesn't sound appealing but this is an interesting wine that should be tried. 85 Points

AA Roncus - Collio Bianco 2009

Straw yellow wine with lime hues. Not quick to give on the nose but there are hints of pineapple and elderflower on this Fruili white blend. The palate has an interesting mineral quality and good acidity. It's not a wine that I could sit and drink watching a movie, certainly a wine for food but of high quality with good balance and a decent length on the finish. 88 Points

Cantina Ericina - Nero d'Avola 2009

This wine was giving a good show of itself on the nose with a mixture of red fruits, raspberry and strawberry notes as well as a touch of rose. Soft, young tannins with a nice finish make this a real glugger of a wine. Not sure I'd pick this as a Nero d'Avola, as it doesn't display those characteristics in a strong way but it is a pleasant every day drinking wine. 85 Points

It would be unfair of me to score the Wiltshire Seyval Blanc as my knowledge of Wiltshire wine is limited to this one glass, however a nose of pear drops and apples was pleasant but a watery finish was a let down. The outstanding wine of the night was the Domaine Combier Pouilley Fuisse with an exuberant pink grapefruit/honeyed nose and a well balanced, fruity palate with good length on the finish.

All in all, a great night, with some interesting wines and most importantly, I could still touch my toes in the morning with no ill effects. Kathryn is always on hand to offer wine/food pairing tips and is a helpful, enthusiastic guide to the wines she has chosen, so for that, I'll add the point back on.

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Blasi Bertanzi Impronta 2004

2011-03-07T01:57:00.000-08:00

Blasi Bertanzi Impronta 2004

Blasi Bertanzi Impronta 2004 was sent to Wine90 House almost a year ago and had been gathering dust all this time sat quietly in amongst more well known Italian names all the while maturing to what turned out to be a perfect drinking age. Whether I caught Blasi Bertanzi Impronta at the height of its drinking curve or simply found it the perfect accompaniment to the mushroom penne pasta dish of that evening I'm unsure, but one thing I am sure of, is that this wine is taking off right about now.

The Blasi Cantina is on the outskirts of Umbertide, and here, in an unassuming location for excellent Italian wine, a young vintner is making some serious noise in the local area and beginning to attract some national attention. The awarding of due bicchiere for the Cantina's cheapest €4 red made local wine fans sit up and pay close attention, but it is with the Impronta, his most expensive bottling at €12-16 that the true quality of his wine and dedication to his craft shines most brightly.

Blasi Bertanzi Impronta 2004 is in equal parts a Sagrantino, Merlot and Sangiovese blend from northern Umbria, this IGT wine is in the tender care of Mauro Blasi whose low yields and human intensive wine production methods create wines of outstanding quality. The grapes spend 20 months, individually, in french oak, later blended in stainless steel. The wine then spends a further year maturing in bottle.

Northern Umbria is not renowned for its quality wine production, though of course, the area has been producing wine, like the rest of the country for millennia. The best wines of Umbria have traditionally come from its southern half so it's especially exciting to find a wine of such quality outside of the area.

The Blasi Bertanzi Impronta 2004 is not found on these shores as no importer has taken up the Blasi Cantina ... yet. However, it can be ordered via Italy through the trusty wineshop.it website.

Blasi Bertanzi Impronta 2004 - BUY - €15
Sitting a deep, thick, brooding, dark cherry red this is an impressive wine before you've yet lifted your glass. On the nose this wine has a great licorice, tobacco and blackcurrant profile. The palate is thick, full and long and 100% fruit intensive with blackcurrants, dark cherries and a hint of licorice on the finish. This is a beautifully balanced wine, perfect in fact in balance with fruit, intensity of weight and alcohol playing in harmony. I think the 2004 is drinking at its optimum right now in 2011 and for this I would give this wine - 92 Points

A stonking score for a wine from this area and at this price, but this wine is on the money for the moment, but it now, to drink it now.

Where can I buy this wine?
Wineshop.it seem to be the only company selling this wine for the moment, still selling the 04's too.

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Interested in hearing from anyone who has tried these wines or knows of other secret sensational wines from Umbria?

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Kuenhof Valle Isarco Riesling Kaiton

2010-07-15T13:41:00.000-07:00

Kuenhof Valle Isarco Riesling Kaiton

The world of wine blogging can be a fickle mistress, one day you're swamped in enotecas for your autograph, cheered and back slapped, the next you're attacked with a Parma ham (on the bone) for dismissing a paisans favourite grape. As many of you know, wine geekery is not my formal training, I am actually a full blown net nerd paid to work in SEM/SEO, that little talent helped elevate this blog and the keyword Italian Riesling atop the Google rankings and my cheerful raspberry to Italian Riesling continues to top my e-complaint list.

So, just two years later and after one suit and several beatings, I have decided to write about another Italian Riesling and this one, the Kuenhof Valle Isarco Riesling Kaiton from the Alto Adige is nothing short of scrumdiddly (winespeak for "on par with anything from Franken").

The Kuenhof estate, run by Peter and Brigitte Pliger is located just outside the town of Brixen (70% of the towns population are German speakers) or Bressanone as we shall call it and just a short distance from the Austrian border. This 4 ha vineyard in the South Tyrol holds the honour of producing Italy's northernmost wines. As such, the wines at the Kuenhof estate are Italian only in postcode, growing grape varieties you'd expect from the Austrian vineyards across the way. Strangely, grapes do not respect international borders and so it comes to pass that some of the worlds finest and best value Gruner Veltliners, Rieslings, Sylvaners and Gewurztraminers come from this part of the Alto Adige and the Kuenhof estate.

Kuenhof Valle Isarco Riesling Kaiton, like all the Kuenhof wines from this tiny estate is produced in small numbers. Considering the quality of this wine and the small scale production these wines are hotly priced. The Sylvaner (as you could guess) has the largest production but still comes in at just under 11,000 bottles per year. The wines are also well received with Gambero Rosso year on year with the '07 Sylvaner taking the Tre Bicchiere and still we are getting change from a €20? You can buy the wines directly at the vineyard for closer to the €10 mark.

So, onto the Kuenhof Valle Isarco Riesling Kaiton itself. At the beginning of this week I was in Venice and along with a chum shared a bottle of the '08 vintage sat next to the Rialto bridge feasting on seafood risotto as the the mosquitos, in turn, fed on me. I'm sure the location and late evening sun helped but this was perhaps the most elegant, lengthy and pure Riesling wine I've tasted from any region. No one made me say that. Honest. No one.

Kuenhof Valle Isarco Riesling Kaiton 2008 - BUY - €19
A light golden colour in the glass. A focused and stylised wine with some herbaceous and mineral notes, even a little orange peel on the nose. The palate is concentrated, lustrous and coating with a long finish. This is one of those wines that is almost a little one dimensional but does that one dimension so well that it's a good thing! (that makes sense) 90 Points

Where can I buy this Wine?
Karadarshop.com - €19

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What is your favourite thing from Austria? Apart from this wine... which isn't.

Foradori Granato 2004

2010-07-07T09:35:00.000-07:00

Foradori Granato 2004

Foradori's Granato 2004 is the first wine from Trentino to make the Wine90 blog. Probably not too surprising, there are only a couple of estates in this north eastern Italian province that consecutively turn out top notch vino.

If you're an Italian wine fan you've probably heard of Foradori, Ferrari and Tenuta San Leonardo but otherwise there hasn't been much to shout about.

Trentino, traditionally, is all about quantity with the highest yields in Northern Italy which is seldom a statistic matched by quality.

But what of the region's saviours and what of this, the Foradori Granato, not only (arguably) the regions best red wine but also its best exponent of the regions finest indigineous grape, Teroldego?

This grape was once a bit of a favourite in Italy, but like so many of her indigenous grapes was slipping into obscurity until taken on by a brilliant traditionalist with the Midas touch. This grape owes it's refound popularity to the indomitable Elisabetta Foradori. She alone is responsible for the resurgence of this full flavoured and moderately tannic red variety. Often compared to Zinfandel, recently it has been proven that one of the parents of Teroldego is actually Syrah.

It is in Trentino though, in the foothills of the alps, within the Foradori vineyards upon alluvial deposits and gravel and with Elisabetta's careful hand that Teroldego has found its greatest expression. The most exciting thing about focusing on Italian wines are stories like these. Every year you hear about another varietal that had been crucially important to the region in times gone by - almost falling out of existence, only to be brought back to life once more. It's an exciting time in Italian wine and Elisabetta's story, whilst extraordinary and dedicated is repeated in every region of Italy. There seems to be an underground society for the revival of indigenousness grapes in Italy; they just forgot to send my press pass.

The wine itself is unique and whilst us wine bloggers love to draw comparisons I'm going to resist temptation as to not do the wine a disservice. This is a wine of elegance produced under some harsh conditions with few peers to guide Elisabetta's path.

Foradori Granato 2004 - BUY - £35
A deep ruby red, the wine's bouquet is a sumptuous mix of tobacco, tar, graphite and cedar with the oak hanging in fine balance but Granato is also fruit forward with notes of orange, cocoa powder and spice. The nose really is stand out and gives the wine its unique quality. On the palate Granato shows well ingrained tannins, both dense and silky with a fine satisfying finish offering plums/dark cherry and some herbaceousness on the back end. I realise that's a lot of characteristics for a wine but it really is something else! 94 Points

Although undoubtedly well made, this will be a wine that splits opinion and so a great wino or dinner party wine. This is the wine to take to your best wine snobs house and trip them up with. If anyone picks this wine blind they should instantly be ordained as the new Jancis of your group.

Where can I buy this wine?
Europeans - Italian Wine Selection - €30
Americans - The Wine Connection - $47
Brits - Antique Wine Company - £35

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Your best blind moment?

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Scavino Barolo Bric del Fiasc 2004

2010-07-06T07:27:00.000-07:00

Scavino Barolo Bric del Fiasc 2004

Paolo Scavino Barolo Bric del Fiasc is the finest wine from the Scavino vineyards seemingly year on year, but the 2004 vintage is a masterclass in balance. It appears as though the true potential of Bric del Fiasc has now been realised, a project of over 30 years, and I'm looking forward to seeing if the Scavinos can raise the Barolo bar once more - vintage permitting.

Paolo Scavino has long been a favourite producer for Piedmont fans in the know, not simply for this top cru Barolo but for all his Barolo wines including the award winning Rocche dell'Annunziata. Scavino is currently producing 14 different wines that beautifully showcase the Piedmont with Langhe, Barbera, Dolcetto as well as making use of Cabernet Sauvignon in a couple of Nebbiolo dominated blends.

The Bric del Fiasc doesn't get close in price to the Barolo superstar prices of Gaja, Giacosa, Voerzio et al. As these wines are highly sought after and praised in Italy they sometimes struggle to reach our shores and those that do are snapped up quickly. The Bric del Fiasc 2004 had Antonio Galloni of the Wine Advocate in raptures. The producers top wine in a heralded vintage is still, in relative terms, a QPR hotshot. What other 96 point WA 2004 Barolo can still be found for under €60 a bottle?

So why is this wine so special? This cru Barolo wine was first produced in 1978 when Paolo's son Enrico convinced him that the grapes from this particular area should be vinified separately as they are the best of the bunch and the wine should be sold under its own cru label. Since then the wine has grown in stature. Currently a supporter of French Oak it will be interesting if the amount of oak and period in barrel remains constant for future vintages. However, it was, as always, the combination of grape, vinification and vintage that brought the 2004 vintage to new heights; this combination is also likely to produce a terrific result with age though that remains to be seen as I killed this bottle already.

Paolo Scavino Barolo Bric del Fiasc 2004 - BUY - €58
Wound tighter than a Woods backswing this wine had to be left 12 hours before coming out to play. A lovely deep and bold red to the rim with no signs of age to speak of, on the nose the wine offered up measured notes of blackberry, chocolate, blueberries, cedarwood and, for my nose at least, that classic touch of marzipan. Smooth on the palate a great balance of tannins and acidity already, fruit forward with blueberries coming forth on the 45 second finish. A wonderful wine regardless of the price. 95 Points

Unfortunately I don't have a time machine, I would love to see how this vintage performs 10 years from now.

Where can I buy this wine?
Americans - Kahns Fine Wines - $89
Europeans - Mahatma Wine - €58
Brits - Fine and Rare- £62

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Committed wine infanticide recently?

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Dover Street Restaurant London

2010-07-04T11:40:00.000-07:00

Dover Street Restaurant London

I'm rarely moved to write restaurant reviews. My hesitancy stems partly from my fervid fear of foodies but mostly because neither texture, colour nor presentation put me off my grub. I eat everything. Aside from fish bones and egg shells there isn't a whole lot that would make me push my plate to one side. However, my experience at the Dover Street Restaurant may be about to change all that.

Before we get onto that, I have to say, the wine list here was truly dreadful, as was the music at this "jazz bar" (Blame it on the Boogie and Like a Prayer do not a relaxed dining experience make). There was one shining star in the dismal haze that passed for a wine list - a Serge Dagueneau Pouilly-Fumé. I ordered two bottles, one for the food, the other to numb the pain.

OK OK I'll be fair, apart from the dated disco numbers, dire wine lists and being forced to sit in the corner behind a pillar experience; the food was delivered with a smile and the inevitable pepper mill mime artistry and all was well. More than well. For the pound in your pocket and considering we're in a Green Park location this has to be one of the best meals I've had for under £30 per head.

Though I've been told that all the dishes here are excellent and my dining partner was lavishing praise upon her Roast lamb, I found myself enjoying my first course more than my main. Maybe because I was ridiculously hungry or maybe because Dover Street gravadlax, wonderfully fresh Salmon, seasoned to perfection with dill, brandy and mustard, was quite simply, one of the best salmon dishes I've ever had. The main course, Pot Roast Duck, was also excellent with a sweet and strong orange sauce as well as beautifully braised parsnips and sauteed potatoes.

Food aside, the Dover Street Restaurant is a strange place. Not strange bad. Not strange good. Just strange. Squatting in one of wealthiest areas in London, you descend these elegant surroundings (of the street!) into an art deco style cavern which would be cozy were it not gargantuan. Where old timers play jazz classics while you relax and enjoy your cocktails or first sips of Pouilly Fume and then, serene and peaceful with the last strains of the sax in the air, they blast out disco classics over your main course while you and your date take up your own mime artistry and get a good look at one anothers main courses... in situ.

My favourite peculiarity of the evening though was arriving at my table to find that the Italian commission for sliced meats (or so I presume!) had placed an 8 page information leaflet about mortadella, prosciutto, speck and all the other hams... and believe me, there are many, on my table. Stranger still, none of these were on the menu!

I get the feeling the Dover Street Restaurant and Jazz Bar doesn't quite know what it wants to be when it grows up. It oscillates between the sublime and the ridiculous several times throughout the evening. What this place really is though, is great fun. Who says restaurants shouldn't keep you on your toes? So what if only one bottle of wine on the list is any good... at least there is one right? If the food is great and the price is fair who cares if people are grabbing their crotches and moonwalking past your table? Not I.

Serge Dagueneau Pouilly Fume 2008 - BUY - £10
A zippy little wine, fresh and more fruity than flinty on the nose and a real nice cut through that mustard and salmon. The palate gave great acidity, with some pear notes with melon and lime on the back end. Strong finish too. A real QPR top ranking wine. 90 Points.

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Favourites from the Loire? Ever eaten at the Dover Street Restaurant and Jazz Bar?

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Tua Rita Syrah 2006

2010-05-17T06:41:00.000-07:00

Tua Rita Syrah 2006

Sorry for the extended sabbatical, I fell unconscious under a pile of tasting notes, but I'm back now so let's say no more about it. Instead, let's say some more about this, the Tua Rita Syrah 2006.

The love affair between myself and Tua Rita continues, so in lust with the soft, voluptuous Redigaffi I never imagined there would be a place in my heart for a second Rita.

The Tua Rita Syrah 2006, while lacking the punchy alter ego title of her Merlot sister, is clearly the more extrovert and stylish knocking your palate for six and making no apology for it. Subtle she aint.

Tua Rita produces some of the best single varietal wines in Tuscany proving time and again that there is more to this varied region than the irrepressible Sangiovese. Created in 1984, Tua Rita never courted Sangiovese at all, 100m above sea level and resting in the clay soil, they went straight to Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot and like to argue that, despite ignoring typical local grape varieties, the Tuscan terroir still shone bright in the glass. A little fanciful perhaps, but a glass of the Redigaffi, Syrah or Guisto de Notri and you'll soon be forgiving the flowery assertions, and after a bottle you'll find yourself agreeing totally!

This bottle of Tua Rita Syrah 2006 came to my door on a snowy freezing cold March morning in South London along with another 11 great bottles that will be blogged up this month. I have decided to review 12 blockbuster reds from 2006, a vintage with such incredibly mixed reviews that I thought it would be fun to compare and contrast regions from producers who are consistently on their game and wines that rarely miss. So how did Tuscany and Tua Rita fair? Well. Incredibly well. So well in fact I'm worried I've started with the best bottle and it could all be down hill from here. Drama & Suspense... I haz it.

Tua Rita Syrah 2006 - BUY - €100

Deep, dark and full of promise, if it's possible to fall for a wine based on looks alone then well, I liked it, and if I could, I'd have put a ring on it. Aromatically forward and seductive with generous notes of blackberries, chocolate and vanilla. On the palate this wine continues its fruit and chocolate seduction with a full bodied hit of jammy fruit. A big wine, forceful wine yet smooth and perfectly balanced. Winner. 98 Points

Where can I buy this wine?

Europeans - Wijncuriosa - €100

Americans -Vinopolis - $164

Brits - Fine and Rare - £113

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The fall and fall of the €. Good or bad for wine in your country?

Top Read Blog Posts - May 2011
Tignanello 2006
Italian Wines 2011
Verdicchio di Matelica

The Sampler Islington

2010-01-04T06:30:00.001-08:00

The Sampler Islington

The Sampler Islington is unlike any wine shop on this fair isle. Not because it carries the most exclusive range (though it does), not because it has the most special offers (that too) and not even because the walls are covered with enomatics (as the walls of Heaven).

The Sampler Islington is my favourite wine shop in the world because it allows, nay encourages, wine geeks like myself to stay for hour upon hour sampling great wines, genning up on Parker and Jancis and, most crucially, making new wine buddies. Forget Corkd and Snooth, if you want IRL wine chums then head up (or down) to The Sampler and make your way through the world of wine from as little as 30p a sample.

So it was, on a snowy, Pre-Xmas hike up to Islington, battling train delays and the snow that myself and The Wine Sleuth spent three solid hours working our way excitedly through 25+ wines from all over the world. The enomatics are handily split up into regions and grape varieties allowing you to taste correctly, going from white to light reds and finally onto the serious "fine wine" selections or, you can stand in the middle, dazzled by the variety and just amble over haphazard from Vouvray to Sangiovese to Pinot as I did until Denise kindly set the rules for the tasting! "Rules help control the fun", cheers Monica!

Eyes Left. This is a standard issue Sampler card. Don't lose it, don't leave it on the table and don't entrust it to your best friend. This is what goes for currency around these parts, no card; no vino. Let the staff know how much paper money you'd like this card to represent, they combobulate their till machines and, as if by magic, you have full access to the enomatics and all the wines within them. Tidy.

There's a range of 800-1000 wines at the Sampler, at any one times 80 of these will be available for sample, the rest available to buy. As samples start from as little as 30p, even if you just have a crisp £10 note you can still sample several great wines and have a great hours worth of fun.

To get an idea of the current range of wines available for sampling click here.

Look how shiny! Tasting samples are available in three different sizes. However the smallest size is certainly good enough for a sample and as variety is the spice of life, I'd recommend sticking to the 25ml and trying as many wines as possible. As the 1000 strong range are on rotation, you can come back the following month and be faced with a whole new set of wines. So, rule #1, stick to the small samples, more for your money innit.

Rule 2: If somethings worth doing it's worth doing right. The fine wines!

It's not often your eyes pass over the 1978 Chateau Cheval Blanc but with the 1998 Chateau Mouton Rothschild by it's side you must be careful to give all the "icons" their props. At any one time there are six "Icons" available, and in December those included these two greats plus JL Chave's Hermitage 1998, Conterno's Barolo Gran Bussia Riserva 1997, Screaming Eagle 1996 and Penfolds Grange 1978.

During my three hour visit I managed to taste my way through 27 different wines the most interesting of which have tasting notes to follow.

You can purchase Sampler gift vouchers and these would be perfect for any London based wine fan for Christmas next year, a Birthday or any other event where the swapping of gifts is customary.

The Sampler is located on 266 Upper Street, Islington and enquiries can be made on 020 7226 9500. However, I wont lie to you, by the end, Christmas or not, we were proper steaming. So, Rule 3 - if you do want to emulate myself and Sleuthy and enjoy yourself at The Sampler you might want to brush up on the art of spitting.

Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1998
Dense ruby red in colour. This wine is a monster from the first whiff on the nose till the finish, power all the way. Quickly developed aromas of tobacco, leather, blackcurrant and bitter chocolate. The palate is ultra drying with massive tannins but also shows good blackberry fruit. Hugely concentrated wine with a truly long satisfying finish. 95 Points

Chateau Guiraud 1er Cru Sauternes 2001
A beautiful mid golden colour, on the nose the wine was all oranges, creme and even smoke. To me it smelt like an orange pudding of sorts. On the palate this wine is beautifully rounded, thick and heavy with a long showstopping finish. Niiiiiiice. 95 Points

JL Chave Hermitage Rouge 1998
Touch lighter than expected but still a dense ruby red despite the 11 years. On the nose acres of spice, smoke, olives and blackberry. The palate shows exceptional balance with a full rounded mouthfeel, still tannic but smooth and pleasant. Super powerful and thick from start to lingering finish. 94 Points

Gilet Vouvray 1976
Deep golden colour. Aromatically gorgeous and expressive with a honeyed nut profile. On the palate the wine reminded me strongly of Lyons golden syrup drizzled over Kelloggs Crunchy Nut Corkflakes. Full bodied with hints of marmalade on the finish. This is desert in a glass but not sickly sweet. 93 Points

Chateau Cheval Blanc 1976
A garnet red tinging brick on the rim. Another blockbuster nose, rich and desert like with notes of glazed cherries, tobacco and marzipan. Wonderfully fresh and lively still today on the attack but the midpalate does hollow out with the flavours coming back with gusto on the finish. 94 Points

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Christmas is always a chance to try many new wines and find a passion for new varities. I had a very Tuscan/Umbrian new year with loads of IGT Umbrian wines on show that I'll report on the next entry. What did you drink over the Xmas/New Year period? Any comments on these wines also appreiciated.

Top Read Blog Posts - May 2011
Tignanello 2006
Italian Wines 2011
Verdicchio di Matelica

Yarden Gewurztraminer

2009-12-20T11:56:00.000-08:00

Yarden Gewurztraminer

Yarden Gewurztraminer? Yes. There's something spellbinding about Krakow and it's old Jewish quarter. It was here on a warm summer's evening that I got my first taste of Kosher Gewurztraminer and of gefilte fish.

I look spellbound there dont I? Gazing off into the distance romanticising about my very own wine bar in Krakow?

Well, the camera tells dirty lies, cos I'm actually watching a stray cat eating the fish I threw at it not moments before. Ahhhh memories. Gefilte fish is, hands down, the most vile, strangely textured food item to ever pass my lips but the wine was a wonderful surprise.

Now, I don't know about you but whenever I take a weekend break or holiday I use it as a chance to feed my wine addiction. It's not just me, all serious winos do this. We will talk to our partners and romantically suggest "The Dordogne" so we can slope off to Bordeaux, or "Tuscany" to visit Chianti, I even managed to convince one partner that Frankfurt was lovely at this time of year only to find ourselves boating down the Rhine and into the Assmanhausen 100 year wine festival! Look how that turned out, I had no idea. However, I hadn't realised that Krakow would provide the same opportunity.

The Polish interest in wine, and especially Italian wine is growing fast and while I was there the central square of Krakow (Rynek Glowny) had been turned into a fairground for a Hungarian Wine event and of course, in the Jewish quarter every restaurant and bar was offering Kosher wines. I don't see the Poles giving up their flavoured vodkas anytime soon but the tide is turning and they're even knocking out some decent wine themselves. If I could set up a wine bar anywhere, I'd choose Krakow. Dreams....

There's been a revolution in Israeli wines and in no small part thanks to Golan Heights (the crew behind Yarden). Israel now produces fantastic QPR wines but not simply Gewurztraminer but also the usual suspects, international reds like Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Pinot Noir, Merlot and, more surprisingly, Sangiovese and Gamay! Whites include Chardonnay, Muscat, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling and even sweet whites and blanc de blancs sparklers. Israel can bring such a variety of grapes to fine expression due to its range of climatic conditions and Israel itself is getting into wine in a big way. There is a national committee for the promotion of Israeli wines within Israel and a movement to push the country's indigenous grapes. I'm afraid I can't list them, because I don't know them, I have quite enough to contend with in the world of Italian indigenous grapes but if you know them, feel free to post a comment!

Does this wine taste like the Gewurztraminers we all know and love? Actually, Yes. Like most of you, my experience of Gewurztraminer is limited to Alsace and Germany with the odd US, Italian, New Zealand and Aussie bottle thrown in here and there making it terribly difficult to say what an Israeli, Galilee Region Gewurztraminer should taste like. However, if this is what it should taste like, I'm in.

Yarden Gewurztraminer 2007 - BUY - £12.79

Golden yellow in colour. The wine is aromatically gorgeous and offers up many typical Gewurztraminer notes including lychee, almonds and flowers but also a an unexpected showing of peach blossom. The wine has a detectable sweetness on the palate, is rich but with firm acidity, rounded, mid to full bodied. This is a real find and only let down by a slightly clipped finish. However, if you keep drinking then you don't notice ;) 89 Points

Where can I buy this wine?

Europeans - Winectar - €13

Americans - Gordons - $16.99

Brits - Yayin V'Simcha - £12.79

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Favourite Kosher wine? Favourite Israeli Wine? Best place you managed to convince your girlfriend or boyfriend to go pretending it was for them... when secretly it was for the vino?

Vinoteca Farringdon

2009-12-19T15:55:00.000-08:00

Vinoteca Farringdon

Vinoteca Restaurant in Farringdon has been my go to spot for a fair few months now. I've spent so many hours here over the past 3-4 months and tweeted my experiences so often that it's kinda bonkers that this is the first mention on the Wine90 blog.

Vinoteca is one of those wine bars that, due to the sheer variety of wines on offer, makes it a perfect stop for your lunch hour or for a mid afternoon wine by the glass option or even for a pre-dinner sherry. Yet, it's taken me a full year back in my hometown of London, to get my glad rags on and eat here.

It's confession time. I don't often write restaurant reviews. I find myself crippled with the same affliction which hit my dining partner that evening, I'm going to call it the palate collywobbles. Whilst she became obviously nervous at the pre-dinner wine flights fearing I would subject her every comment to full on scrutiny, I, by the same token, can start to doubt my own palate and description thereof, when it comes to food.

This may shock some readers, but I've been eating food since I was a toddler, that I should question my ability to taste food, I reassured my friend, is exactly as ridiculous as her fear that she might taste the wines incorrectly. As long as you have four of your five senses working for you on any given day, you can taste wine. Even I draw the line at listening to the wine, but if you do hear a whistle or a slight popping to your wine, then you're probably a little under the weather and should consult your GP.

So the scene is set, Vinoteca, wine flights, full meal, wine tasting virgin as dining companion, OK we're good so far? Great.

For any self confessed wine novice Vinoteca makes your life pretty easy. Food and wine matching can be a fun game to play but if you get it wrong, and you're stumping up plenty 'o pounds for your food, it can also be a perilous game. Fear not. At Vinoteca they have paired all the meals on the menu with a carefully thought out by the glass suggestion. However, I like to play fast and wild and Vinoteca's 280 strong by the bottle selection was too tempting so I opted for the very fairly priced 01 Borgogno Barolo Riserva. Not at all predictable behaviour on my part.

As this is no Tarantino movie, let's review the wines and the food in chronological order.

Pre Dinner Wine Selection

You can view all of Vinoteca's wines by the glass here. I chose;

Schloss Vollrads Erstes Gewachs Riesling 2004
A vibrant golden colour in the glass. Fast and fruity on the nose with acres of melon, honeysuckle and peach on the initial sniff with a lasting honey aroma towards the end. On the palate the wine is rich, juicy and more tropical than expected. Starts out quite fat with the acid rushing forth just before a fair finish that continues in that tropical theme. Rhinegau texture but colour and palate?! Not typical perhaps but enjoyable. 87 Points

Monte Bernardi Chianti Classico 2005
A deep ruby red to the rim. Simple profile to the nose with straight and expected cherry and vanilla though also a little dusty with hints of chocolate and coffee or to be fanciful, a cherry Bakewell tart with cappuccino sprinkles. Same focused approach to the palate, definite Chianti though not complex, high acid, firm tannins, mid bodied with a balanced finish. 88 Points

La Guita Manzanilla
A light golden green colour but getting a touch of those "past it's primes" you can get when your Sherry is just that month too long in the tooth. Still retained great salt and nut flavours on the palate. On the nose detectable cantaloupe, hints of grass and lemon. Focus has diminished a touch perhaps due to being a month too old or a.n.other fault? As such can't rate the wine fairly.

THE FOOD

I like to think of myself as fairly unpretentious at least in the world of wine. In the food world however I know well enough what I want and that is..

A generous portion
Fresh ingredients
Tastes and textures that compliment one another
Lastly, I hate, with a passion detest, food that is overly dry or ... too moist.

I have to hand it to Vinoteca, there are so many restaurants trying to double as wine bars, and, wine bars trying to double as restaurants that fall so far short it's red cheeked embarrassing, but not here. The food outshone the wine. The food outshone the Barolo. The Italian Wine Blogger says the Food@Vinoteca outshone a Barolo. That's huge news.

To Begin: Selection of Spanish cured meats, almonds & olives - £7.25
Full size plate covered in typical Spanish meats which paired up really well with the sherry. These were not overly fatty cuts that you can find in many London restaurants, well presented.

Main Course: Gressingham duck breast, chanterelles & trompettes, farro, cimi di rape - £16
Succulent duck breast with the most mop-up-able jus I've had for a long while and once again generous portions and well presented.

There was no room for dessert. I don't think I've ever said or written those words before. Weird.

Borgogno Barolo Riserva 2001
A classic ruby red fading tawny to the rim. A sweet violet nose with touches of marzipan, tar and wild strawberries even. Still a little young, the palate is still a touch tannic and bitter but loosening up over time. A good freshness here though and a balance of force and elegance that showed toward the latter as the evening wore on. Didn't blow me away but still a solid 90 points for my palate.

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Where is your current go to restaurant or wine bar? Any city.

Prager Gruner Veltliner

2009-12-15T07:16:00.000-08:00

Prager Gruner Veltliner

Prager Gruner Veltliner goes with everything. Or to be more precise Prager Gruner Veltiner Achleiten Smaragd 2007 goes with everything. From the bitter Olly Murs to the sweet Joe McElderry through a pepperoni pizza via butter popcorn and during the marmite-esque foulness that we call Twiglets, this bottle of wine tasted delicious throughout and even seemed to compliment this array of Saturday night junk.

Don't get it twisted though, Gruner Veltliner is a serious grape and Prager a top producer that deserve to be enjoyed alongside light meats/white fish. However, if you hate food and wine matching and just want an easygoing, delicious and fruity white then Gruner is your buddy. GV is the most versatile wine in the land for food and wine matching.

So who are Prager?

Prager are among the top producers of Gruner Veltliner in Austria. Prager's Gruner Veltliner wines are produced in the Wachau area of Austria, which, together with Kamptal and Kremstal are considered the best regions to grow Austria's most famous grape. Franz Prager, was a trailblazer in Wachau helping to establish the area as a top region for dry whites. Gruner Veltliner is traditionally considered a wine that is best drunk young, although the new cheifs at Prager, daughter of Franz, Isle and her husband Toni Bodenstein are trying to push the envelope on an aged Groovy.

Prager are dedicated to two grapes actually and are just as famous for their Riesling as their Gruner Veltliner. Both varieties share a clarity of fruit and richness of texture in the hands of Prager and they are one of the most reliable producers year in year out.

Top Wines from Prager

Weissenkirchen Achleiten Riesling Smaragd

Wiessenkirchen Klaus Riesling Smaragd

Wiessenkirchen Achleiten Gruner Veltliner Smaragd

For those of you who have yet to try a Gruner Veltliner, like any variety, they can run the gamut of quality. These are served as jug wines in Austria and can be, at their lowest price/highest yield end, nice, fresh, peppery young wines.

While at the Prager end the wines can be massively complex and throw out all kinds of subtle aromas and flavours including citrus, lime, rhubarb, flint, white flowers but often keeping that peppery palate.

Traditionally Gruner is not thought to be particularly aromatic however this Prager effort was blowing our nasal passages from the uncork and with some pretty intriguing notes too.

Prager Grüner Veltliner Achleiten Smaragd 2007 - BUY - £26

A rich hay colour. Aromatically very forward with mixed and interesting notes including lime rind, rhubarb, white pepper and wet stones. The palate is full bodied, rounded and with fairly low acidity still avoids "flabby", the fruit is excellent on the midpalate and the finish is acceptable. Think tropical smoothie mixed watered down with cordial lime juice, same texture too. Fine balance, 13.5% alcohol never an issue. 91 Points

Where can I buy this wine?

Europeans - Vinothek - €24

American - Hart David Hart - $39

Brits - AG Wines - £26

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Do you have a wine that seems to go with all food? Do you like the Groovy?

Wine90's Wine of the Year

2009-12-14T07:04:00.000-08:00

Wine90's Wine of the Year

If you're a member of any of the major wine message boards you've seen the habitual "wine of the year" threads that populate them at this time of year. Partly inspired by the need to bash Wine Spectator's Annual Top 100 but also because these topics seem to embrace a human need; the need to categorise, file and rank experience. This phenomena is clearly visible in the countless retelling of the year shows that dominate the TV listings around this time (Sports Personality of the Year, Comedy Awards, Music, etc). The desire to recount the year is no less prevalent amongst us wine drinkers.

This "Wine of the Year" choice is a very personal matter. For some, their wine of the year will be connected to a special memory, an anniversary, a birth, a date with a new love or the wine they celebrated their first birdie (or in my case even making par) with. My choice for wine of the year is similarly sentimental but unconnected to events in my personal life.

For me a great wine, a truly great wine, is more than just a flavour, colour or an aroma, more even than a composite of all three. The wine has to feel well made and that is altogether a more difficult thing to assess. Sure the fruit has to be of the highest quality for a memorable finish but as with all great wines the key is balance and to achieve the perfect balance the skills of the winemaker coupled with the perfect year and the quality of the fruit must come together in perfect harmony.

When this happens, you have a truly great wine and for me there was only one contender in my tasting year - Romano Del Forno's Amarone della Valpolicella 1996.

Not even inside the traditional Classico area, Dal Forno is still unquestionably the King of Amarone. No other Amarone producer manages to pull off such mouthwatering ripeness of fruit. The new oak employed, the ripe fruit and the skill in creating balance by the winemakers allows Dal Forno to stand alone at the top of Amarone production and, as you can imagine, such attention to detail does not come cheap for the consumer. Dal Forno's Amarone della Valpolicella estate is minuscule, at 8 hectares there are only around 1000 cases produced annually meaning even the most recent vintage will set you back £200 a bottle.

1996 isn't really considered one of the top years for Amarone yet this wine, just about coming into it's drinking window, shows fantastically well. The colour just starting to tinge lighter at the rim and the complex bouquet beginning to show telltale signs of maturity the Amarone hasn't even reached your lips and you're on tenterhooks, grinning and looking around for a friend to say "hey, hey, just put your nose in this".

As an aside, I also did this last week when (wine that shall remain nameless) had a nose exactly, and I mean bang on the money exactly, like Cif (Jif for everyone over 30).

Although the wine doesn't actually have a 350 day finish, I sampled this wine in January of 2009 and despite countless competitors it is a wine I can recount with pinpoint clarity, an experience I will always remember and my 2009 wine of the year. If anyone wishes to test that theory I am available for more Dal Forno tastings any time any place.

Romano Dal Forno Amarone della Vapolicella 1996 - BUY - £350

A thick lush dark purple and only just fading lighter on the rim. This nose is killer. Rushing notes of blueberry, blackcurrant, vanilla and a creamy coffee. If you've experienced the Italian confectionary "pocket coffee" there are a few packets of these mixed into the blend it would seem. The palate is the real joy, full bodied, huge structure, fruit forward, perfect balance, tannins caressing and the real showmanship in this wine? 17.5% alcohol resting perfectly within the structure and never overtaking or leaving a hot finish. 98 Points

I don't know if you'll be more shocked at the £350 pricing, the 17.5% alcohol or the 98 Points, fact is, this wine is what it's all about, that it happens to be Italian? What can I say?

Where can I buy this Wine?

Europeans - Arvi - €396

Americans - Vinfolio - $599

Brits - Arvi - £350

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G'wan then, what is your wine of the year?

Up the Dry Creek without a paddle

2009-12-13T07:48:00.000-08:00

Up the Dry Creek without a paddle

The world of Californian Wines is large, varied and daunting and even with my Official AVA maps and guides I still find myself lost in a sea of Valleys, Coasts and Creeks. There are a handful of wine bloggers out there who really do know their Oakville from their Oak Knoll and High Valley from their Hames Valley and all this week they've been offering guidance to the Italian Wine Blogger in return for tips on my equally confusing but endlessly rewarding chosen subject for 10; Italian vino.

So it was with great pleasure that I accepted an invitation to go along to the official Wine Institute of California's first Social Media event in Hoxton on Thursday to get a taste of the different varieties coming out of California that are available in the UK. Speaking with the organisers it seems there are real problems getting the Brits to drink mid range Californian wine but no problem at all enticing them with 3 for 10 Blossom Hill/Gallo wines.

It's frankly impossible to generalise when it comes to Californian wines. The area is huge and 4th only to Italy, France and Spain in terms of growing area, has a massively changeable climate north to south, coast to mountains also making vintage generalisations nigh on impossible and the grapes grown change like the dickens!

There is half as much Chenin coming out of California as there was five years ago and Pinot Grigio vines have sprung up 480% in the same time. Pinot Noir and Syrah are being newly planted and traditional Zinfandel vines are being torn up. However the stalwarts we come to associate with California continue to prosper and, even with this small 12 wine sample from Thursday night we can see that wines from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc continue to flourish and real quality can be found in the mid priced range.

If you like tasting notes... you're gonna love this! *flexes fingers* - Here we go! Remember folks, like always, if I am passing a wine it is only because I personally wouldn't buy it again for my own personal consumption, a party or a friend, it doesn't mean you will not like it. If you like, sweet apple notes and nettle finishes then you'll love the first wine. The Beringer burning banana plantation Chardonnay I gave just 84 points to yet I requested a bottle to take home because I knew my flatmate would love it. Always read the tasting notes. If your palate is actually identical to mine then... kudos!

Loredona Monterey County Pinot Grigio 2007 - PASS - £9
Sits straw yellow. A fresh, clean, crisp wine with a sweet green apple nose. On the palate good acidity with a distinctive nettle like bitter finish but refreshing. 86 Points

Dancing Bull Sauvignon Blanc 2006 - PASS - £9
A straw yellow colour and aromatic from 12 inches! Exaggerated notes of pineapple, fig and melon, very tropical and "starburst-esque". A mid bodied wine with a fruit forward flavour profile that left my tongue tingling on the finish, not in an acid way, in a sharp pointy needles way. Basic fruit explosion but good fun. 86 Points

Beringer Vineyards Founder's Estate Chardonnay 2007 - BORDERLINE - £9
vibrant mid straw yellow and a nose of a burning banana plantation makes this wine distinctive for $11. Luscious mouth feel and solid fruit on the palate with apricots and papaya in play. An extreme wine both on the nose and in the mouth, a case of knowing when you've been tango'd. 84 Points

Bonterra Vineyards Viognier 2007 - BUY - £10
Mid straw yellow. A really intriguing wine on the nose producing notes that make for a strange mix. Peach and lime intermingle along a tropical sugary theme with the lime flavours coming to the fore on the palate, strong finish, strong acidity making this wine a real QPR doozy. 89 Points

Hahn Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 - BUY - £10
A deep dark ruby red and thick in the glass. Aromatically obvious Cabernet Sauvignon with blackberries, a touch of graphite and a little smoky. Velvet texture and solid tannincs, fine balance, well done. 88 Points.

Kendall-Jackson Vintner's Reserve Pinot Noir 2006 - BUY - £15
Light ruby red with orange hues. Notes of bacon and cherry unfold quickly and on the palate the wine has a good balance with fine tannins. Good actually. 86 Points

And the Star of the Show... amazingly a wine I have written about already on the Wine90 blog. Only 3 Californian wines have ever shown up here and low and behold, my favourite mid priced, UK available, Californian Red was sat on the table. The EOS Petite-Sirah.
EOS Paso Robles Petite Sirah 2005 - BUY - £10
Deep purple in the glass and right off the bat you are hit with a blockbuster nose of cherries, spices and pepper. On the palate the wine is thick and jammy with a lustrous mouthfeel, flavourful and smooth with acres of blackcurrant in the mid palate. 14% alcohol held with absolute style, nothing harsh or hot in the finish which goes on and on with notes of chocolate. Not really complex just simply delicious. 90 Points
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Why is it that mid range Californian wines haven't really made it over the Atlantic? Or do you think they have? Also, please leave any tips for great Californian wines for me to check out to help expand my knowledge? Or, that are simply dee-lische?

Chianti Classico 2006

2009-12-08T04:12:00.000-08:00

Chianti Classico 2006

2006 was a superb year for Chianti and Tuscany in general. For once, Tuscany could revel in it's 55 Tre Bicchiere awards while the usually undisputed King of Italian wine making regions, Piedmont, had to settle for a paltry 52. Within Italy sales of Chianti are on the rise and internationally there is growing demand for Chianti Classico which is now world renowned for offering fantastic QPR and has shed it's straw covered/tourist image. It's hard to generalise a vintage across an area as wide as Chianti but these wines are of high alcohol, good acidity and with a fine tannic structure so should age beautifully.

2006 is thought to be the second best Chianti Classico vintage in the last 15 years, coming two years after the best vintage, 2004. As is often the case when you have a great vintage, the second brilliant vintage in quick succession can offer great opportunities for those looking to invest in wine. It is often forgotten that the mighty Sangiovese, even outside of Brunello di Montalcino is capable of ageing and any one of the four wines in this review will be drinking beautifully in 2016 and some even possibly up to 2030.

Reliable and Excellent Producers of Chianti Classico
There are some producers who can be relied upon year in year out with their Chianti Classico wines being among the best of the vintage, however, I can't guarantee any of these wines will be excellent in any given vintage, I'm not Matt Skinner. These are four of my favourites from 2006 that you should be able to easily locate.

Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia £20-25
Barone Ricasoli Chianti Classico Castello di Brolio - £15-20
Fontodi Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Sorbo - £25-35
Castello di Volpaia Chianti Classico Riserva - £12-16

The top two wines here are among my personal top five wines of the year and I'm not just talking about Chianti, or Tuscany, or Italy, I'm talking unbeatable value, two of the best wine bargains of the year anywhere. Capiche?

You may notice a glaring omission from this list, Castello di Ama. While there is no denying that both the Bellavista and Casuccia bottlings are extraordinary I can't recommend these wines as great value both retailing around the £100 mark.

Fattoria di Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia 2006 - BUY - £25
A deep brooding ruby red the wine takes a while to express itself on the nose however when it does the bouquet has sumptuous notes, spice and earthy with blackberries and cherries mingling with floral tones too. This is a full bodied Chianti that is fresh with strong acidity, drying tannins and a great structure for ageing potential. Powerful and vibrant give this wine some respect and another five years at least. 94 Points

Barone Ricasoli Chianti Classico Castello di Brolio 2006 - BUY - £15
Almost purple in colour this wine is stunningly aromatic and typically Chianti Classico. Dried fruits, spices, cherries and chocolate on the nose. The wine is mid-full bodied, tannic and with a bitter finish. This wine won the best Italian wine of the year with Wine Spectator magazine and so the price has gone up since my video review you can see here. 89 Points

Fontodi Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Sorbo 2006 - BUY - £30
A deep purple wine and full bodied, this Chianti Classico takes hours and hours to open up and really should be cellared for a further 10 years to get close to its best expression. However, today the wine is bringing a sour cherry, tobacco and chocolate nose if decanted for several hours. On the palate the wine is high on both tannins and acidity and the structure and power here is immense. Some red fruits on the palate but mostly earth and just dense. One of those wines where drinking today is pleasurable but not a patch on having a little patience, it's gonna be a monster! 94 Points

Castello di Volpaia Chianti Classico Riserva 2006 - BUY - £14
The lightest of the four, a medium ruby red and also the least dense this Chianti Classico is made in a smooth style and is medium bodied. On the nose the wine has classic sour cherry, some vanilla but also a heap of earth too. The wine can be drunk today but will improve, is smooth in style with the typical high acidity and great fruits on the palate. A touch watery and clipped on the finish. 89 Points

Where can I buy this wine? (the lowest price available - just click the link on the country)
Felsina - USA - EUROPE - UK
Barone Ricasoli - USA - EUROPE - UK
Fontodi - USA - EUROPE - UK
Castello di Volpaia - USA - EUROPE - UK

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Chianti Classico recommendations, stories, tales of woe, all things Chianti Classico! Where did you have your first Chianti? Food match-ups?

Beaujolais 2007

2009-11-30T12:09:00.000-08:00

Beaujolais 2007

And now for something completely different. A Beaujolais 2007 taste off, Morgon Vs Fleurie with my good friend and wine blogger, the Wine Sleuth.

A great way to finish off this November's final blog entry as we turn our attentions away from the Italian wine for just a moment and focus on Beaujolais. A few days ago I was sent a couple of Beaujolais wines from the very famous British wine company Berry Bros and Rudd and decided to do a blog entry for Beaujolais which has never really been covered here.

So, a quick round up on Beaujolais for those who are not familiar with the region.

Beaujolais is the southern most wine region of Burgundy. Within Beaujolais exists 10 cru denominations, Beaujolais-Villages, regular Beaujolais and Beaujolais Superieur. It's generally agreed that the best examples of Beaujolais come from the 10 cru areas and each of these cru provide their own distinctive take on Gamay (the grape that makes Beaujolais).

Stylistically Beaujolais wines can generally be defined as fresh 'n' fruity light red wines and in most cases with an over-riding cherry fruit profile. Each of the 10 cru wines however impart their own distinctive characteristics on the wine and, as you can see in the VT for example, Morgon, while just down the road from Fleurie is easily distinguishable even by the likes of myself and the wine sleuth!

If you're hankering to get into Beaujolais you will find it a hard task indeed if you don't memorise the 10 cru regions of the appellation. Many of the cru Beaujolais wines are not marked "Beaujolais" at all, simply "Morgon" or "Fleurie". Below is a guide to help you.... and to remind me and that American chick.

A quick guide to the 10 Beaujolais Crus

Chiroubles - Producing one of the lightest and most elegant Beaujolais wines and the best of the bunch to be drunk young.

St Amour - Northernmost Cru whose wines benefit from a few years age. Dull when young the wines grow into supple, spicy wines with a few years on the clock.

Brouilly - The largest of Beaujolais' areas, the wines are fruity and best drunk young unlike...

Cote de Brouilly - A more concentrated Beaujolais, grapey and rich, that also benefits from some time.

Fleurie - The most famous Cru on the street Fleurie has a huge following. The wines are typically flowered in aroma, cherry in flavour, feminine in style and easy drinking.

Morgon - The second largest cru and perhaps the most complex and distinctive Beaujolais. Can fool you with gooseberry flavours you're not expecting from a Beaujolais. The terroir here is decomposing slate quite unlike the other crus and this impacts on the wine. Not to be drunk young, lacks fruitiness of other Beaujolais wines in its youth.

Juliénas - Distinctive cru with solid structure and distinctive fruits including peach, blackcurrants and raspberries. Depending on the producer Juliénas can be drunk young or take a few years to develop to it's full potential.

Moulin à Vent - The most robust, tannic and full bodied of all the Beaujolais cru. Moulin a Vent wines are usually the most expensive and with age become Pinot-esque and in their youth are still superb examples of Beaujolais.

Chénas - Next door to Moulin a Vent, the wines need at least three years to develop and when they do this is one of the most complex and strongly perfumed Beaujolais wines.

Régnié - Light, supple and a great example of young Beaujolais. The latest of all the Beaujolais crus (incorporated in 1988) the wines of Regnie can be a little diverse in style.

Domaine Louis Claude Desvignes Morgon La Voûte St.Vincent 2007 - BUY - £10.95
Ruby red in colour, the wine starts off a little dumb on the nose with basic spice and cherries. After an hour or so the wine opens up big time and all kinds of aromas come to the fore including blackberries and wet stones. On the palate the wine is a little bitter but with a great texture, sound acidity, fine tannins, good structure and balance. Good example. 88 Points
Domaine Métrat Fleurie Vieilles Vignes La Roilette 2007 - PASS - £12.65
Identical ruby red in colour, on the nose the wine is simply raspberries and hints of cherry. The palate follows this identical and simple profile, the balance is good and the acidity is fine and this is a typical example of Fleurie with more fruit on the palate but still too watery and one dimensional for my personal taste. As a Fleurie Beaujolais it's very good but this style of wine is not to my personal taste. 85 Points

Where can I buy this Wine?
Both available at Berry Bros and Rudd

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Simply, Beaujolais, love it or loathe it?

Top Read Blog Posts - May 2011
Tignanello 2006
Italian Wines 2011
Verdicchio di Matelica

Jean Leon Wine

2009-11-25T05:35:00.000-08:00

Jean Leon Wine

The Torres owned Jean Leon wine range are a peculiar brand to spark an interest in wines for an Italian wine blogger yet so it was, four years ago, that I visited my very first vineyard as part of a "team building" trip for the travel company I worked for. Readers of this blog will know that I have spent two of the last three years in Italy, working in the wine and travel trade but before this I spent a year in Barcelona solely in Travel having not yet stirred any interest in my heart for wine.

So by happy coincidence a trip to the Jean Leon vineyards was organised by our industrious office manager who loved the wines of the Penedes region (and also the cheap Cava awash in Barcelona) and we all set forth in our mini van quite unprepared for the scale of the vineyards or the size of the personality of Señor Jean Leon.

The wine game, in itself, is a pretty glitzy and glamourous business and all of us bloggers light up any room we enter but Jean Leon takes wine glamour to a whole new level. Born in northern Spain, in the port of Santander in 1928, Jean Leon's story is like the pheonix from the flames (quite literally as his family home burned to the ground in 1941) as his childhood set backs toughened the young Ceferino Carrion (you can't really be called Jean Leon and live a life so cool, that's not fair) and led him to try his luck in Paris, New York and Hollywood.

With no immigration papers in New York he took manual work but soon found himself in trouble with authorities and crossed the USA to Hollywood *jazz hands*. To become a legal immigrant Leon enrolled in the US Army during the Koreon War. After the war Leon found work in the Villa Capri restaurant in Hollywood, owned by Joe DiMaggio and Frank Sinatra. Making friends with the screen legends who frequented Ol' Blue Eyes establishment came easy to Leon and, due to his friendship with James Dean, he eventually opened the La Scala restaurant in Beverley Hills *jazz hands*. This restaurant was immediately popular with the Hollywood film stars and sports stars alike.

Jean Leon threw his passions wholeheartedly into his restaurant and chose the wine list himself but could never find, as he would say "that perfect wine" or "el vino perfecto" depending on his audience I suppose. So, Jean Leon began the quest to find a perfect piece of land upon which to start his own winery. Leon travelled to France and Italy and eventually landed in Catalonia, Spain and in the Penedes wine region just outside of Barcelona and bought his 150 hectare estate in the hills.

It's uncanny how similar our lives are really. Back to me.

We arrived at the Jean Leon estate and were quite unprepared for this incredible story and after our group asked the usual cringe-worthy questions (which seemed quite reasonable at the time) "Can you get white wine from red grapes", "You only get 1 litre of juice from all those grapes, hurumpf, I wouldn't bother, why do you bother?" we went on to try his wines and were taught how to taste and giggled along at how ridiculous the whole swirling, sniffing and slurping was.

We all came away with wine though and for me at least, I remember being remarkably impressed at the effort that goes into producing vino, and the different levels on which it can be appreciated and all these different grapes! Amazing!

Since this mini adventure I've retried a few of the Jean Leon wines and both the Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay can be good value but not always terroir expressif*. Though I do find many of his wines to be way over-oaked for my personal tastes these wines have a big following all over the world.

Jean Leon Cabernet Sauvignon Riserva 2002 - PASS - €20

The wine sits a deep ruby red verging on purple and is initially very good and happily expressive on the nose, too much wood hides the fruit though there are some good blackberry notes and touches of graphite too. The palate is dense and woody, tannic and a bit bitter perhaps needs a lot more time, not sure where they are going with this or what it is trying to be. Not badly made just not a great taste to it. 81 Points

Jean Leon Terrasola Syrah 2005 - BUY -€10

A mid ruby red the nose is punchy and fragrant with lots of interesting notes, still a little too much wood here. The bouquet is blueberries, caramel and redcurrants however it is on the palate that this wine pleases with great fruit following through to a good length on the end. Rarely do you get this kind of balance and solid fruit on a €10 bottle of wine. 87 Points

Where can I buy this Wine?

The Jean Leon range of Pago and Terrasola wines are quite readily available. Cabrini Wines in the US, KWM in the UK and FinestWine in Europe.

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First vineyard you ever visited? Most stupid wine question you ever asked? Or anything about Jean Leon wines or wines from Penedes.

* Terroir expressif is my phrase. I just invented it today. No, you may not use it.

Top Read Blog Posts - May 2011
Tignanello 2006
Italian Wines 2011
Verdicchio di Matelica